The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop brakes on my 1950 chevy panel truck

well guys she had been sitting up for 28 years had her running in 4 days, now i got new master cyl,wheel cyl. and new rubber brake lines,,,,any "words of wisdon" on doing the brake job,i started taking the wheel cyl. off last night, sat. i will take off the Master cyl.....any advice will be appreciated//thanks

Spend the extra and install a dual MC. Just put one in on my '51 GMC.

The dual mc is a good idea. I would replace those fifty year old brake lines as well. You can buy prebent lines from vendors or bend your own with a few tools. On the fifty, the front line goes up into the front crossmember and around. Very difficult to install without removing a bunch of stuff. An alternate route can be used here. The split system and dual mc are best put in while you re do the brake lines.
If you buy the bracket for the mc, it would be best to get the mc from the same vendor, to insure that it will fit. There can be clearance issues in some cases. There is a lot of stuff here on this. If you need more help don't hesitate to ask.

I just went with a duel master cyl ,new brake lines wheel cyl etc. also upgraded to a larger dia tie rod and modern tie rod ends I feel a lot more confident with driving the truck know.old navy 51..............................

The single MC will do just fine as long as you keep your system maintained. Be sure to keep your parking brake in good order.

Be sure to keep the system clean and free of contaminants, dirt, water and oil are your enemies. You shouldn't have to worry about flushing the system, removing the MC and all the wheel cylinders will allow almost all of the old fluid to drain out, what remains will be flushed when you bleed.

If you don't have them, get some flare nut wrenches so you don't round the corners of the fittings. If you have to use penetrating oil to break loose a fitting, rinse it down with denatured alcohol. I have also used a propane torch on the tough ones, but you have to remember that brake fluid is flammable. I try to have a helper with a squirt bottle handy, just in case.

Unless you're experienced, don't take apart all the brakes at the same time. Do one side, then the other. That way if you can't recall how something should go back together, you can look at the other side for reference.

It is easy to twist the steel lines, and you will probably have to replace some of them. You can buy the line with the fittings on at the parts store, but you will need a bender to keep from kinking the line. The spring benders don't cost much. If you have too much line, put a loop in it where it won't cause problems.

I always figure on a quart of fluid, and use most of it when bleeding. Don't save a bottle that is less than half full, it will absordb moisture from the air.

For bleeding get a piece of clear tubing from the hardware store. I don't recall what size that fits snug over the bleeder screw. I put the other end in a small clear pop or water bottle. Set it up or hold it so the fluid has to run uphill some to get in the bottle, it's easier to see the air bubbles.

Adjust the brakes per the manual. They need to be even both front and back.

Also, replace the springs while you have things apart. They can break at the worst moment.

Just a reminder, if you switch to a dual MC you must redo the lines!

The stock single-pumper has the left front wheel on it's own line, and the remaining wheels connected by brass metering blocks. Dual-stage masters require the front wheels share one output, the rears share the other.

When my dual+power unit arrived, I crawled around under the truck w/ a tapemeasure and mapped out how I wanted the lines routed. Then I got specific lengths of line with preformed ends and connectors attached. Assembled w/ flare nut wrenches, filled, tightened, pressurized, tightened, bled. Entire brake system took a weekend to install, hasn't leaked in 3 years.

If you're keeping the one-shot MC, rebuild it. Mine was working perfectly and 15 seconds later it was toast. 5 seconds later so was my bumper, fender, and all faith in single-stage master cylinders.

Most of the old masters will give a full pedal after a rebuild, then drain down due to the corrosion compromising the bore. Once the pedal hits the floor, you're on your own. 1950 style Huck brakes have more parts that should be carefully and sparingly anti-seized IMO. Most every old line I've broken apart was paper thin due to internal corrosion. They can look like new on the outside, look inside it's another story!

I'm running over 2 years on a MC I rebuilt, but the bore was clean and I was anal about it. No pedal problems yet. I did all the wheel cylinders too, they were fairly crummy but all cleaned up with a hone.

Splashoil,
I recently replaced my brake lines with stainless steel and had no problem replacing the front line without removing anything. Came in from underneath.

Thanks for all the info guys.....finally got the rear drums off friday,i had already bought new Master Cly. ,4 new wheel cyl. and 4 rubber lines , do you guys usally replace rear wheel seals while doing a brake job????" My helper said he always does this on old trucks that had been sitting up.......do i need to do this????//thanks a lot--I APPRECIATE THE HELP

Just a word of advice, even though the MC and wheel cylinders are new, take em apart and check out the bore and cups. Who knows how long they may have sat on a shelf or if they were assembled right in the first place. Too much riding on them to take for granted.

As for the seals, it depends on how far you want to go. In order to replace, you'll have to pull the axles. Not a big job,but you'd have to tear into the differential a little. If they don't show any signs of leaking, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

I agree with brjr51. If they're not leaking...don't touch. To me, a little too much work for one of those "while I'm here......" type of thoughts.

4 rubber hoses? Don't you just need 3? 1 for the back and 2 for the front?

thanks for the help-------i did buy 4 lines ---your rught i only needed 3.....ok last night i cleaned the brakes on rear,one side is leaking from the rear axle seal........i bought both should i replace only one????????????????

Since you will already have the rear end cover off, replace both seals.

Be sure and check the axle for wear grooves in the seal area. Also the axle vent on the top of the housing.