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| | | Forums66 Topics128,076 Posts1,055,920 Members48,429 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I think not, but some checking in the parts book would tell you. I'll try to in the morning if someone does not beat me to it. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Grigg, that’s exactly what I was asking about on another thread, i.e., a parts book. Where do I find a parts book, are they reprinted, or are some on line?? I’ve got a 1950 3600 and am interested in interchangeability. . Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Maybe a Master Parts Catalog is what you are looking for? These show up on eBay every so often (that's how I got mine) and they are available on CD-ROM on eBay (and maybe from some of the repo parts dealers). The price is right for the on-line one above. There are also Interchangeable Parts Catalogs that show up on eBay (I got s 1929-1954 IPC for 1929-1954 Chevrolet cars and trucks on eay several years ago). | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | That's the link. I have an original catalog too. The support on ebay looks to expensive for the weld repairs done to it, about $20 delivered is all I would pay for it, and I happen to be looking for one exactly like it. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 355 Member | | Member Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 355 | The one picture in the ebay link, will fit any of the big bolts. It was common practice to cut the top bar out when removing engines, instead of trying to lift it up over the front clip. Most times you find them missing the top bars center part. Hard to find one thats not been cut there or at the top of the U. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Another reason that many radiator frames have the top bar disconnected from the radiator frame is so the fame could be mounted backwards and the radiator mounted on the inside would then not touch the long-shaft water pumps on 55-62 235/261 engines (for a quick and easy engine replacement). The top bar from the radiator frame was still needed so that the radiator shroud (and hood latch) had a cross brace, connected to the fenders/etc. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 24 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 24 | Got a support last weekend that is just about 2in too tall. Can I just cut and weld this? Has anyone done this? | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I don't see why you can't cut and weld it. I cut the top bar off my 2-ton frame to change engine after I noticed it had already been cut and welded twice. Now it has 3 welds per side. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 355 Member | | Member Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 355 | I would say, no you just cut it off. Theres a ton of stuff that bolts to this piece. You need to check out if all the other parts line up in the holes. You have fender braces, inner fenders, lower rad baffle, upper rad baffle, and the rad itself. May be a case you were you would need to cut it in the middle, bottom end, or top. Also on my 47, you could just turn the support around back words, as the lower baffles bolts are at an angle, and this would put them where you'd have to drill new ones. I wonder this one being taller is from a COE. I've also found some with the wrong mount on the bottom making them taller. | | |
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