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#216343 09/25/2006 5:33 AM
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I dont have a stock tie rod and i want to update it what is the length from the steering arm mounting point to the other. I already removed the ball from the steering arms and purchased a reamer to taper them. I need the specs to make my custom tie rod. thanks


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#216344 09/25/2006 12:18 PM
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I am not sure what you are trying to do. I just replaced the tie rod ends with "modern parts" and bought a new stock tie rod. CPP sells a heavier 1" tie rod for their "modern" tie rod ends. I know this doesn't really answer your question, but I am at a loss as to why you would want to re-invent this part. It's still dark here in Georgia, I'll go measure some time today.


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#216345 09/25/2006 3:50 PM
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John, may be cheaper to buy outright rather than cut right and left hand threads for the 'custom tie rod' you propose.


~ Cosmo
1949 Chevy Half Ton
Rocinante, like Don Quixote, he is awkward, past his prime, and engaged in a task beyond his capacities.
"...my good horse Rocinante, mine eternal and inseparable companion in all my journeys and courses." ...Don Quixote, Cervantes
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"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength." ...Eric Hoffer


#216346 09/25/2006 5:24 PM
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On the topic of changing tie rod ends, when the ball stud is removed from the end the hole where the stud was is not tapered. When you get the modern ends is the part which goes into the spindle tapered? How does one modify the hole? When you see the advertising and instructions about changing the tie rod ends this is not mentioned.


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#216347 09/25/2006 6:13 PM
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OldBlue-

I read a thread here a while back that listed the NAPA part numbers ( I think Jim & Caroline posted it). They mentioned that the easiest way to deal with the taper issue is to take off the steering bell cranks and take them to a suspension shop where they'll ream the holes to the right taper, which is determined by which tie rod end you use.

On a separate note, I think the tie rod ends sold by the vendors are not tapered. Is that right?


'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
#216348 09/25/2006 7:47 PM
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john romero,
I didn't take my old tie rod and tie rod ends apart like I thought.If it helps, center of ball socket to center of ball socket was 47 1/2"(+/-). The distance to the inner part of the tie rod end to inner part of tie rod end was 40" (+/-). There was about 5/8"-3/4" of thread that was visible at each end. I am not sure how much of the threaded end was inside each tie rod end (2"?). P.S. I THINK Cosmo is right if you are talking about the stock tie rod ($35-$40), but I don't know how much a 3/4" left handed die costs.
olblu49 and NM51,
These were the part numbers I got
LH Tie Rod: Moog ES29L female thread
RH Tie Rod: Moog ES29R female thread
The parts did not have a taper that I could see. Please tell me if they do! I just pushed them into place and tightend them down.
Another set of numbers I came across for the drag link was Moog DS-91 double male thread. I have heard SOME people refer to this as the tie rod. On my 49 1/2 ton, I always refered to the pitman arm to steering arm connection as the drag link. I did not buy (or have any first hand knowledge) the Moog DS-91.


Always get a 2nd opinion, especially if I am the source of the 1st opinion.
#216349 09/25/2006 9:42 PM
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for 49 chevy truck why would you buy ccp tie rod i can get one for $50.00 with tapered ends that is better ccp setup. I guess you like to keep venders in business thats why i am the CUT MASTER. instead of buying ccp 1" bar have you ever tried welding a piece of angle to the tie rod that will make it stronger.


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#216350 09/25/2006 10:37 PM
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I didn't buy CCP's 1" tie rod. I was quite happy with the strength of GM's original 3/4" tie rod and paying $38.95 for it. I guess I misunderstood what you wanted as I am NOT the CUT MASTER and generally don't like to modify steering components. (I would if I could, but I can't so I don't).


Always get a 2nd opinion, especially if I am the source of the 1st opinion.

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