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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,158 Posts1,057,025 Members48,460 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 9 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 9 | I have a problem with the steering on my C-30. About 10 yrs ago, after working on my front drum brakes numerous times, I replaced the front hubs with 78 disc brake hubs and spindles. I used the original control arms, upper and lower, using the newer ball joints to fit the spindles. I had a problem with the tie rods, and ended up reaming out the tapers to fit the stock tie rod ends. {the 78 tie rods & link wouldn't work} I aligned the front end and went on about business. I just broke the third tie rod {this time the sleeve broke at the end of threaded rod inside] or sleeve on the right side of the truck. Each time it has broken I have been driving at a safe speed, usually 35 or lower, but this time I drove 600 miles the day before pulling a loaded car trailer, keeping up with everything on the road. Yea, Whew! Nothing is loose, I can't find anything that would vibrate to work the link or rods to the point of snapping like this. The front is in alignment, tires are OK, drives and turns smooth....it has manual steering. I run 19.5 rims[Old UPS wheels} with 8R tires, practically new and balanced. In the past when it broke I checked everything, replaced the parts with New TRW stuff and went on. This is only the third time in 10 years, but I have several 1k+ trips to make in the near future and I don't even want to consider something snapping at 60 mph pulling a loaded car trailer. Does anyone know of any Heavy-Duty Steering parts on the market? The ones I have found rated HD are the same as what I've been using. My truck is a wrecker, built on a cab and chassis when new. I have owned it since '79, and always kept it well maintained. If I live long enough I'll get around to painting it[still original] and making it pretty again. Thanks for reading and thinking and I love this website...lamar bradley on SC coast
70 C30 Wrecker
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy LamarB, I assume you have checked everything through its full range of movement for binding, bending. Did you have to screw the tie rod ends a long way out of their sleeves to make their connections? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | The 71 up parts are larger but you say they wouldn,t fit. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | It almost sound as if the toe was set too far out. If the tie rods aren't threaded into the sleeves the proper minimum amount, the will put exessive strain on them. I'd also like to suggest that you use Moog parts, TRW is an economy brand. Moog is the premium brand, and tend to be made much heavier and precise than the economy brands. I know that I'm sounding partial, but I'm an alignment mechanic by trade, and have seen how the various brands perform. Moog gives the pest performance from my experience. The problem might also be caused by the pinch bolts not being tight, which can allow flexing between the tie rod and sleeve.
Bill Burmeister | | |
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