The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 235 Intake/Exhaust Manifold Gasket????

OK, so I am sure that is the problem with the old girl. The question is, there seems to be a multipiece kit and then a non-factory style one piece. Is this correct? I went to Larrowe's and they sell the CLifford one piece. On the CLifford page they call it a header gasket, is that gonna work on my stock setup? I want to get a beefy better than stock piece. Is the Clifford one the best bet? Any insight or thought would be greatly appreciated, thanks ya'll.

Kyle

Oh yeah, it's for my '61...sorry.

Kyle,

I had a NOS gasket set for the exhaust/intake masnifolds a few years ago and it was thicker than the ones I have seen from NAPA and the repo parts vendors. I have at times used two of the thin gasket-sets with the copper-colored goop/seal available at any parts store.

Maybe someone else has information regarding the one-piece gasket.

Tim

Fort Knox,

Did someone have a chance to verify that your intake/exhaust combo was within "flat" tolerances to give you a successful outcome when you installed new gaskets.

Stuart

FORT KNOX-I recently replaced the intake and exhaust gaskets on my 62 truck-235 six. The main thing is to have flat surfaces on both intake and exhaust surfaces. I had mine smoothed by a local machine shop and took the two pieces apart and put a new gasket between them. Do not tighten the two pieces until you have installed back on the block . I did not use any adhesive on the gaskets and gradually tightened the bolts from the middle out. then I tightened the two manifolds. Worked very well. Also helpes to disconnect the exhaust maniford or put something under it to hold it up until you get the manifold bolted up as that stuff is heavy!! Good Luck!

I have not looked into flattening things. Is this absolutely necessary. I was hoping to just pull the intake/exhaust assembly off and regasket it. I really want to do it on a saturday and be done with it. Am I dumb for not getting things machined?? Thanks guys.

Kyle

Fort Knox,

When you have the intake/exhaust combination off, lay something relatively flat across the face of the manifolds...a aluminum yardstick or such!

It is not uncommon for the exhaust to warp and cause gasket sealing problems. You probably want to get this job done 'real fast' but unless you do it right, it will be 'half fast'.

If it is not obviously warped, just re-gasket it.


Stuart

Stuart,
Is gasket goop necessary on a new set?
Gooped on both sides?

No. Two flat machined surfaces mashed together with lots of bolts don't require a sealer.

Stuart

Thanks guys, my fuel pump went out the other afternoon, so right now I am waiting for NAPA to comb the universe for one. I have looked at the Gaskets and think that I'm gonna try and get one of those cool fat one piece ones so that I can have a nice seal and make the truck sound nice and clean again. Thanks for all of the ideas this site rules!!

Kyle

Hey all,

Just thought I would post that I figured out the problem. It wasn't the gasket at all. On closer inspection one of the bolts had come off of the exhaust pipe flange and that was the source of the leak. So, the gasket is fine and I am just gonna bolt the pipe back up and I will be good to go. Thanks again.

Kyle

Tom Langdon also sells the one piece gaskets as I remember.

I got all my 235/261 gaskets from Ebay.

The brand is ROL and it is a complete engine set with everything but a rear seal.

We did several engines with the kit - no problems.

The seller is http://www.oldtimeparts.com/

The whole set is $39

It comes with a 2 piece intake/exhaust sandwich gasket that is a metall layer with a waffle pattern on one side and a common header gasket material layer on the other side. Verry thick so it even sealed great on 2 engines with wraped headers.I always use copper spray - but that`s a religious question.

Frank