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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 384
S
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 384
Computer was down when I needed you guys the most. My "lifter noise" tink tink tink went to a clunk clunk clunk like hitting the block with a ball peen hammer.

I quit driving it until I could open it up and check. My son Joe and I took off the head...nothing wrong...we had adjusted the lash earlier this year in a failed attempt to get rid of the lifter noise. The engine reportedly had 10000 on a rebuild. I had driven it up to Wis from Mo 630 mi. 1.5 years ago...rough trip no heater 10 degrees 60mph gusts roaring engine.

Joe and I took off the pan, I expected to find bearing pieces. We found piston skirt pieces. So, we looked up and there was #2 missing a few pieces. We took it out and there was another broken off piece trapped in the piston, sliding in and out of place 1/4" and we thought it was my "lifter" noise. Later, when I took out the lifters, I found one of the solid lifters had a top that could come off and go back on. This could also cause the noise. We may never know. I'm new to this deep engine stuff. I removed all engine attachments I could reach easily and hoisted out the engine. I kept going until I had it down to the block. 1 or 2 hrs a nite til done. Took it to recommended motor Dr.

This is what I learned: I said to just do an estimate for what you think it needs. $1100 - I learned it is pricy. I trimmed off parts I knew I could get cheaper and got it down to 419. They flipped and said they depend on parts sales profits of 30% on each part and would have to charge more to cover labor....wierd huh?

Since it was a recommended place and this is a small town, I negotiated....bought some parts, skipped some services. When they got dug in they told me they were the original pistons and this had never been bored. I said the odometer showed 68G when I got it and he said it is the first time around and this is what they look like. The wear had ovaled the cyl and the slop causes the piston skirts to pound it and crack. He saw 13 thousanths ovaling and more wear throughout. He bored it 30 over the cam and crank journals and mains 20 over. He is putting the crank in for me along with the cam. Joe and I will take it from here. Price is still high and unknown, but they are working with me on trying to keep it down. I am having all the deep engine stuff done, and leaving the valves and stuff we can get at til later. What a money pit, but I like the thing, what can I do.

Thought someone could learn from my story. - Scott


55 1st Chev.
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
When I tore down the 235 I had bought, I found two of the lifters that had loose tops. Engine hadn't been making any unusual noise, either. Sounds like your noise was the piston coming apart.

Appears the rebuilder is working with you, and being honest with you. I learned about the surcharge on machine work when you don't buy the parts, in Wichita it ran 25% and all of the shops I talked to followed the same policy, some wouldn't even do the work without selling the parts, period.

As far as the cost, I spent about $800 for the rebuild on my 235. The shop did the machine work and rebuilt the head. I did all the other assembly work and bought the parts elsewhere. I put in a M4F cam, about $150, iirc. I didn't have to buy pistons or rings, was able to acquire a very lightly used set for free. Sounds like your guy isn't trying to shaft you on the price.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
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Thanks for the info Fred. I feel like the lone ranger here trying to judge everything in a vacume. Thought I could get the block home today, but the cam didn't come in so it is tomorrow. It is usually a high of 37 degrees up here so I was going to take the day off and paint the engine, since it was supposed to hit 60 tomorrow. I think the blocks were blue weren't they.


55 1st Chev.
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 55
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Thats a steal, 800 clams? I spent that in 85 and didn't do the head. I'm going with a 250. I have 2 235's but I was looking at about 1800 to do it right. So I got a 250 for 250 and don't need to rebuild it. Mine is a driver.

Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
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'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2000
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Color can be grey or blue, seems like Chevy mixed things up some. I assume it depends on which plant, but that's just a guess. I went with Plastikote Chevy blue, seemed to be the closest match.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
Joined: Mar 2002
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Thanks for the replies. I made some progress. Got the block home, painted, and on an engine stand in the garage. Whew! it was 16 degrees when I got up today. Cleaning and painting engine parts now. Thanks again!


55 1st Chev.

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