The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Power window regulator, best type??

I posted this in the 'door' forum and am reposting it here 'cause I think less people go to the door forum.

I've seen three diffent types of kits to add power windows to my '51 1/2 ton. I've never done it before and although I am confident I can handle the installation, before I pick one design over another I wondered if anyone could give their experience with the different types?

There First Type (TYPE 1), like the ones LMC sells, that use the original regulator but appears to substitute the handle for a gear that is connected to a motor by a chain or worm gear so that when you hit the switch it cranks the original regulator with the motor. (ie SPAL kits). This style might also work by removing the cranking mechanism and replacing it with a gear drive connected to the remote motor, I can't tell from the pictures.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SPAL-POWER-WIND...9255QQcategoryZ60203QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The second kit I found (Type 2) comes with a single track and the 'clamp' for the glass that replaces your regulator and uses the side guide rails. (ie flat glass kits)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...mQQcategoryZ34206QQitemZ4641810140QQrdZ1

The third kind (Type 3), looks like your original regulator (scissor type) but comes with a motor rather than a hand cranking mechanism.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/55-5...QQcategoryZ33706QQitemZ8066784707QQrdZ1.

Everyone's input is appreciated!

I have used #1 &#3. #1 is reasonably priced & worked fine but was a lot of work putting in. #3 was a great kit. It was pretty easy to install & fit real good.

Funny you should mention this. I'm installing a power window system right now in my '59 Apache. I got my kit from e-bay, see:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...Name=MERC_VIC_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT

It's manufactured by "It's A Snap" sold by 'pug191.' The units use GM motors and have large lower supports to help avoid 'wiggling.' The motor runs a sort of flexible 'worm drive' which runs a plate up and down a steel vertical track. The plate on the vertical track bolts to the horizontal support which contains the bottom of the window glass. I found that the rig worked better on my model by simply bolting the plate atop the vertical track directly to the bottom of the window frame, but that's your option. I did have to 'tweak' the unit a bit to make sure the plate kept the window parallel to the centerline of the truck. This consisted of using washers as spacers - a simple task. When I hooked the thing up electrically, the unit ran the window up and down smoothly and with plenty of power. At $130 for two units (same as the cost of two NOS mechanical regulators) I really can't complain.

Apache Kid: thats what im looking into purchasing for my 63. any pics of the install? how did you mount the new track inside the door?

Hey, Troy,

Nice rig! . . . for a Dallasite. What can I say, I was born and raised in Ft. Worth.

If I had a digital camera, I'd run outside and snap you a photo. I began by taking out the window and wing window and front rail (The wing-window has to be loosened before the big window will come out) then decided I would need access to the lower workings in order to locate the bolt holes, etc, correctly. So I cut out a small panel down closer to the bottom of the door. I don't recommend this to all you purists out there, but it allows access to us street-rodders.

By making careful measurements, I was able to determine just where the attachment bolt holes need to be drilled in the inside door panel. Obviously, the track needs to be attached to the inside of the door. (Perhaps your model truck will not have the same openings).

I made sure I marked the center-point of the window (front-to-rear)on the door with a marker to make sure I kept the track under the middle of the window. If you don't take care to do this, you'll have your motive source off-centered, which can induce 'wiggle/wobble' when the window is raised. You also need to ensure the track is square for the same reason. I did not cut the track at all. Therefore, the motor ended up being pretty close to the door bottom (but not touching the bottom).

I also made sure the electrical connections were well protected by covering that area with electrical tape covered by 'pooky' out of a squeeze-tube. On the first try, the front edge of the window was closer to the inside of the window slot in the door than the back edge. I had to carefully loosen all the bolts/screws (I used pan-head screws - note the threads in this kit are #6 metric) and experimented placing washers at the base of the track on the front-side bolts/screws until the window was pretty well parallel to the window slot in the door. I made a final adjustment by placing a washer where the plate at the top of the track bolts onto the window frame support. There's a rubber window-stop where the window bottom needs to stop. The trouble is that it is not centered on the window. This probably doesn't matter with a mechanical regulator, but with a centered track the window wants to cant over slightly when at the bottom. I'm modifying mine so the stopping impact will be near the window's center.

I suspect you'd have to pay attention to this kind of alignment with any kit because different doors have differing kinds of curvature, etc. (I'm still talking about flat windows, here).

Good luck!

Apache Kid,
Many many thanks. Just the kind of info i was looking for. pictures help but with the details you gave i think i can figure it out. im gonna save this info, I may not get around on this till fall if my A/C dosent act up on me

When i do i'll take some pics so the next around will have instructions and some pics to help em out

Hey, Troy, we Stovebolters gotta stick together.

Best of luck!