The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 1954 261 engine

It's on, bessymay is back from the machine shop.She has been bored 40 over factory specs.Will keep you guys posted with pics.

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/4729/261backfrommachineshop1it.jpg

I'm also building a 261 ('57 Pontiac).
I'll follow along 'cause I can't remember HOW to put it back together...

A couple of tips for you guys I picked up rebuilding my '62 261.

Have the pistons and rods balanced, its a good $150 investment.

Before you install the crank, have the machineshop drill and tap the front of it so you can install the front pulley with a standard sbc crank bolt.

Rod bolts- You can use big block chevy rod bolts, they're lots cheaper than nos/re-pop 261s. All you've got to do is bevel the head on the bolt a little to make it look like the original, otherwise they'll hit the cam. This isn't a big deal and is done routinely in stroker engines.

Tap the front main cap and drill the timing cover to be able to bolt from the outside rather than the inside.

Don't forget to put in the baffle on the crankcase side of the draft tube hole before you put on the oilpan. (oops!)

Don't forget to drive the pin in the middle of the driverside of the block to cause the oil to circulate, if your engine is 'new' enough to have come set up for that. If not, consider drilling and tapping the block to set it up, or have the machine shop do it, there's a thread or tech articl here on how.

One more thought, if it isn't too late:

Chrome Moly rings rather than Cast Rings.

Sure, Cast Rings break in quicker, but if you ever have the misfortune of overheating your engine Chrome Moly will survive alot better, and the cost is about the same.

Thanks for all the info to think about.We discovered we have the wrong main bearings for the engine.We will be delayed a little longer,no problem !!

Guys want something cool go to th inliners web site and ask about the "Caddy 261" Caddy parts in a 261. very coooooool......

Bowtietim,
those blocks look nice all cleaned up! Just a question though, did something go wroing with those frost plugs or is that sealer that I see?

They are brass freeze plugs,there is a sealer around the edge of them.The machine shop installed them.

Tim - I have the same engine. Which head are you gonna put on top?

I am putting a 848 head off of a 1956 235 car engine.I just got it back from the machine shop.Had all new valves,springs,guides,seats installed.I also had the steam holes drilled.I started fitting up the fenton headers and the 2x1 offenhauser intake yesterday evening.I will take some pictures and post them soon.

I have a 1957 848 but have not done anything with it yet. I'm wondering how the steam holes locations were determined for drilling? A guy could lay the 261 gasket on and drill through it, but I can't picture a professional machine shop feeling comfortable with that method.

Mike,

Most people call them steam holes but, if you think about that, doesn't that make you cringe? GM called them water holes - additional passages between the block and the head.

Nonetheless, people report here that they have had no problems drilling the additional holes in the head, exactly as you describe.

Tim

Hey Tim -

Steam would be cause for cringing for sure! I've adopted the common lingo on that subject.

So far I haven't been able to get myself to call an engine a motor. That adoption could lead to embarassment if not careful....for example what would folks think if you posted a want ad stating you need an engine for your heater?

50gmc253,we used the original head gasket off of the 261 head.

have the clutch flywheel and pressure plate balanced as one unit
it cut vibration. punch mark the three so reassembly will be easy

Thanks for the helpful tips.

carolines truck (and anyone else who knows),

I am just about ready to do this and have afew questions.

1. Should the whole clutch-unit (flywheel, pressure plate, & friction disc) be balanced together, including the clutch friction disc? If yes, does the friction disc have to be marked to "line up" with the other two parts?

2. Should it be expected that any machine shop will be willing and able to do this - I plan on also having the flywheel resurfaced?

3. If the machine shop also sells parts (such as NAPA), should they be expected/willing to use clutch friction disc and pressure plate from another source (that I provide).

Thanks,
Tim