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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | Not to try to decieve anyone. I used to be Davey here, but changes were made, and I am now Zzark in these forums.
I mentioned before in one section that my truck would turn left very well, but would barely turn right at all.
I got quite a few responses, and thanks.
We haven't done anything just yet. Still dealing with electrical issues. The truck will have to sit idle in the yard until I get this stuff fixed.
But meantime, my mechanic is telling me the reason that the trusk isn't turning properly could be the result of a bent frame rail. His "cheapest" suggestion is to shim the gear box a bit and see if that helps the steering problem.
He also says the gear box itself might be the culprit.
I'm just looking for second opinions here.
I know absolutely nothing about this. Just trying to learn.
It now drives okay, it just doesn't turn correctly. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 20 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 20 | OK Zzark. First center the front wheels so they point straight ahead now disconnect the steering box from the steering linkage. Then turn the wheel fully one way. Now count the revolutions it takes to go back completely the other way, turn the wheel back half that amount and you will have the steering box centered. Now have a look at the differance between the pitman arm on the steering box and the ball joint on the steering linkage. If they do not line up you may be able to adjust the linkage to make up the differance. Or you may have a bent steering linkage. If your front sheet metal lines up ie the hood fenders and grille. I would say your frame is not bent all that bad. Check to see if it is square, get a friend and have them help you cross measure the frame from identical points on each side. Shiming the box slightly is probably ok. but not what I would call a safe fix. Give it a go let me know how you made out. i'm sure with the wealth of info on this site there is not much that can't be figured out.
Allan S Langley B.C Canada
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | ZZark,
I have not bothered to look at your earlier posts, so I have no opinion about your posting history.
If you are serious, I think your mechanic has incredible diagnostic abilities. Shimming the gearbox to solve the problem of your truck's problem, "barely turn right at all", is an incredible solution (as would be replacing the gearbox). How long has your mechanic been in full-time business as a truck/auto mechanic?
Please do not ask me for an explanation of my opinion - I would, however, be interested in learning how/why your mechanic thinks his/her suggestions might solve your severe steering problem.
Tim | | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,299 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,299 | To continue with the Captain's comments, I don't think there is a master spline on the pitman arm so as he stated, disconnect it with wheels pointed forward. Find lock to lock distance, split it in half or if you prefer a tighter right turn radius and reinstall the pitman arm with everything pointed forward at that point. After that, pull the steering wheel and center it to match. Instead of shimming to function the steering gear, I would take it to a frame shop and let them look at it. Should not be a big problem to straighten for someone that knows that kind of work. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 125 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 125 | If someone has had the steering box apart it is possible to put it together so that it has more travel in one direction that the other. I don't remember the specifics but do remember that external adjustments would not fix this, I had to take the steering box apart enough to re-position the sector shaft.
Grant 1950 Chevy 3100 1952 GMC 150 (In Pieces) 1968 Chevy K20 1966 Shovelhead 1978 BMW 100S
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | If this is an AD truck, I don't believe there is a choice in placing the Pitman arm on the shaft, it only goes back in one position. There are no other external adjustments that affect steering centering. As Grant said, it is possible for someone to have taken the steering box apart and put it together one tooth displaced. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,299 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 1,299 | I was almost positive that there was no master spline on my 54. I have been wrong before though. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | On my 51, there is definitely a master spline. However, some of the steering components changed in 53. For example you can get an upgraded draglink for 53 up that doesn't work on the earlier years. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,439 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,439 | Hey ZZark... maybe this is an early Nascar truck? they are only supposed to turn left... right?
There is definitely something hokey in your steering system tho... did you look for bent components?
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | Originally posted by Rusty Rod: Hey ZZark... maybe this is an early Nascar truck? they are only supposed to turn left... right?
Make up your mind Rusty. Left or Right? Homer is an excellent mechanic, in my opinion. He merely suggested shimming the gear box to see what effect it would have on the steering. Then he's gonna work it from there. He also knows that there are other issues that might need to be addressed. The front end and steering column and gear box are not stock for this truck. That is causing the majority of the steering issues. I knew this before I bought the truck. Homer and I discussed the steering situation before I ever paid for it. I'm letting Homer do this as he wishes. Unfortunately, the truck has wiring problems and hasn't been driven in a couple of weeks. I've ordered electrical parts to resolve this. Hopefully next weekend we can get her cranked and take her to Homer's shop and get it all fixed. There are several issues which concern wiring problems, and I'm gonna wait till I get the parts to do it correctly, and do it all at once. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 | could be any of the following
1.loose steering gear or out of adjustment.
2.loose steering box at frame
3.kingpins and bushings
4.check all steering connections for looseness or over tightness.
5.loose spring shackles
6.loose front spring ubolts
7.front spring slipped on spring seat due to sheared center bolt .
8.sagging or broken front springs.
hope this helps,read it in a shop manual. 1951 3100 Chevrolet1951 Chevrolet Suburban CarryallImage"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams." "Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything" "If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"
| | | | | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | Thanks bowtietim.
The truck actually drives pretty good now. Homer pretty much rebuilt it all.
The front end is not a stock 67, nor is the steering column or gear. That would be causing our problems.
I don't get to talk to Homer as much as I'd like to, so I ask questions of you kind people.
Thanks for your responses.
The way it looks for now, I'll hjave to wait about two weeks to have all the parts I need to do the re-wiring to get the truck back to crankable condition.
Then, I'll take it to Homer's shop and see what he can do with the steering issues.
The truck is currently sitting in my yard, pointed uphill. So, I can't safely be doing some of the things that some of you have mentioned here. Thanks for the tips and advice.
I am listening to you. | | |
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