The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Perry Model P Cooling System Filter

OK, purchased the above topic filter on ebay with no idea if this was really an optional piece of equipement for truck or car. Just one of those conversational do-dads that to point at when the hood comes up.
Anyone ever hear of a cooling system filter and specifically a Perry from Spark-O-Liner Corp. out of Minn., Minn.?
Can't Google any of the above. Maybe looking in the wrong place?
Would like to hook it up. But where? Would like to get replacment filters. But where?
Thanks ahead of time.

I have one of these Perry coolant filters in my daily truck and 235 for about 3 years now.
Never heard or seen anything about them either, until your post.
This filter works great and it showed how much sediment floats around inside a used engine.
Maybe less effective on newly rebuild engines.

I still have the original installation instructions.
The filter came supplied with two fittings. and was supposed to be mounted on the driver side inner fender.
One fitting connects a 5/8 hose from the drain outlet on the driver side rear of the block to the bottom of the filter.
The top of the filter connects to a tee at the water pump/heater hose inlet.
The filters small outlet orifice regulates and slows the flow through the filter.


I installed it because there was a lot of build up, especially in the rear of the block, which is typical for most used 235s.
Even after serious flushing there was still fine sediment suspended in the coolant.
At the time I switched to a waterless coolant, which doesn't react with the cast iron block and never creates build-up again.
A filter would get rid of every small particle once and for all, so I installed this NOS filter.
I just re-used the original filter element and flushed it clean every few thousand of miles.
Could have rolled up high-temp-foam instead, I guess.

Now after all these miles, the filter has done it's job and I will remove it next weekend actually.
Never thought I hear somebody else mention this filter.

Do you think having the filter has any restriction on coolent flow? Or does it just work in some kind of passive mode where stuff just gets pumped into it?
The filter inside looks to be some kind of bag that is tied off on top. Tried to pull it out but was afraid I would rip the bag.
I've just had the motor rebuilt so this again just might be a conversation piece rather than an effective tool. Did you have to drill mounting holes in the inner fender or were they already there?
Is there any contact info for this or has Spark-O-Liner faded away?
Where are you at anyway. I'm in Oceanside.
Thanks for your reply and install directions.

I could be wrong, but I believe the Perry filter was used years ago on the Cummins diesel engines. I don't know if the one you have would be the same as these, but actually the more important part on the Cummins was that it was not just a filter, it was a filter/conditioner. I don't recall exactly what was in the filters but it released something into the coolant that prevented or greatly reduced cavitation erosion. Cavitation erosion is fairly common on wet sleeved diesel engines although it has occurred in non sleeved gasoline engines but it is rare. I have never seen it on any engine of this type.

A filter certainly would not hurt anything in a gas burner, but probably isn't really necessary either.

The filter/conditioners used today on diesels are spin on type and usually are replaced every 400 hours.

It's more like the oil bypass filter.
The coolant doesn't all flow through the filter, only a very small portion regulated by the orifice in the outlet.
Btw: The hose into the heater should have a shut-off valve for the summer, otherwise it will always bypass a portion of hot coolant back into the block uncooled.
The heater passages slow down the flow, but everything counts in the summer.
When the filter gets more clogged it will gradually flow less. - You can feel the temp difference between the two filter hoses to check for flow...
The first filter is supposed to be replaced after 500 miles, then replacement every 1000 miles.
Yes, the original filters were soaked in a corrosion inhibitor.
You have to drill to mount the filter. I put mine on the firewall.

It's great for cleaning out a used block from fine sediment, that flushing alone doesn't get.
On a new block, I would only use waterless coolants. An expensive one-time investment, but good for the life of the engine.
And you get so many more benefits, that is pays for itself, the more you drive.

On the topic of waterless coolents....does the Sierra brand qualify?
Ethlene glycol is an animal killer....I personally know. The Sierra brand does not contain the Glycol chemical. If not Sierra then?
Thanks :confused:

Sierra is Propylene Glycol but aqueous, meaning it mixes with water and has a similar boiling point as water based coolants.
Sierra actually works well when converting to the waterless AND non-aqueous coolant I am using and was recommended by many here in S-CA: Evans NPG+.
I posted about it a couple of times since I converted.
Evans NPG+ is Propylene Glycol (like Sierra), but doesn't like water AND has a boiling point of 375* !

You may think coolant temps never get that high, why bother...
But what matters is the source of the heat, the cylinder walls.
They are much hotter than water's boiling point.
A layer of boiling water around the walls is obviously very inefficient for heat transfer or cooling.
The Evans stuff doesn't boil and actually transfers heat right at the source.
No corrosion, improves heat transfer, lubricates and flows better than regular coolant mix, the radiator stays clean, you can lower the pressure and hoses need less replacing.

Putting water inside a cast iron engine makes no sense when this stuff is available and works and is guaranteed for the life of the engine without replacing.
I used this coolant for 3 years now and never go back. I know of many people who converted all their cars to this stuff.

Very expensive (don't ask, still hurts) but after a few years you get more than your money back in return.
The engine seems to really like it, looking at the temp gauge during the hot summer months here in the desert.
Before it seemed more like a pressure cooker slowly eating up the iron and radiator from the inside out, leaving deposits to be cleaned regularly.

Anyway, don't take my word for it - there's gotta be plenty of positive experiences on various forums on the net.
You may also find the usual skeptics who have never tried it and are turned off by the initial investment.

Perry cooling system filters were a approved GM accessory for 51-54 pasenger cars and trucks.

Thanks Road,
I'll stock up now. As far as price, what does it matter in terms of a restoration? A mere drop in a very large bucket.
-jeff

I've been looking for a couple, of those accessory Perry Coolant Filters, for my COE's.