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| | | Forums66 Topics128,115 Posts1,056,633 Members48,450 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 7 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 7 | is it possible to move the 1 ton front end onto a 1/2 ton frame? my one ton is way too long to store in residental garage. i'd like to convert it to a short bed. thought it might be easier to start with a 1/2 ton frame. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 314 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 314 | | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 637 | The one ton frame is heavier but if you are a welder and fabricator you shouldn't have too many problems doing that swap. Probably easier to shorten the frame and move the rear end up, then you would still have the stock steering etc. for the front end. Then use the short bed to complete the swap of the rear end, that's how I would do it, and it would be simpler than the front end change. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 587 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 587 | Yeah, I go for the frame shortening also. You have to cut it in the middle where it is same full depth, don't try to move the axle up the frame. the frames get smaller where axles bolt on. A GMC manual usually has sections on frame repairs and shortening, that the Chevy ones don't. Check one out. Is this a one wheel rear with a long step bed, or a flatbed? Probly easier to shorten a flatbed than step side. Look at other option, a BIgger garage! Now's your chance to build a nice shop, make it long and tall for the bigger trucks. OR, add on to end of your existing garage?
G.L. Grumpy's Old Iron Ranch Huntington, IN 46750
MM R tractor, Speedex and Power King tractors
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 348 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 348 | I shortened a 1954 and 1952 3/4 tons there frames are straight between the cab and rear bumper not like the 1/2 tons.I put 1/2 beds and running boards and disc brake rearends. its not hard if your a welder. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,682 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,682 | Yea, I don't see why you couldn't just shorten the back half.. hell, i'd just cut a chunk out from just behind the cab, then drag the back half forward and weld it back on.. then get a drive shaft to match, and voila! You got a 1/2 ton length with a 1 ton suspension!
If you're talking about an old 'c' channel frame, i'd go ahead and 'box' the frame a few feet in either direction of the weld.
Now if you already have a 1/2 ton frame, most parts are a direct swap between a 1 ton and a 1/2 ton.. altho depending on year, the front fenders and perhaps the hood might be larger than the 1/2 ton design.
What year truck(s) are we talking about?
an idea is only stupid if you think about it rationally.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 | If it has a pickup bed, sell the 1-ton bed and buy one for a 1/2-ton. The 1-ton beds are fairly rare these days, and some of us like the bigger trucks. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 | FYI the 1 ton frame on my 59 is wider than the 1/2 ton frame because I had to make custom motor mounts out of a universal 292 set to make em fit in my truck. The frame is wider and taller up front. Probably out back as well. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 7 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 7 | thanks for all the information. i have a little more work ahead of me. the frame i have is a 1952 1/2 ton and the 1 ton is a 1953. i figured that the hood and fenders might be a little large then the 1/2 ton. i have a 2 full sets of 1/2 suspension, rebuilt 216 and 1/2 ton rear-end and drive shaft. i have tons of parts. i was just wondering if it was possible to bolt the cab and front end on the 1/2 ton frame. i was trying to avoid breaking down the 1 ton. i thought starting with a new frame might be easier to do a frame off and moving the body over last. and then getting rid of the 1 ton rolling chasis, long bed parts, and the left overs. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2002 Posts: 1,571 | The cab and fron sheet metal is all the same. It didn't grow until you get to the 1.5-ton medium-duty trucks. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,682 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,682 | Ahh so there you go.. if you've got a 1/2 ton frame, you can just yank your 1 ton stuff off and stick it on the 1/2 ton frame!
If your 1 ton has a factory bed, it'll have to get shortened.. i'd just sell it, and with the proceeds buy a 1/2 ton bed.. might even have some $$ left over!
an idea is only stupid if you think about it rationally.
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