The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
4 members (Wickedbass, Southerntruck, GRNHydra, Wally / Montana), 53 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,066
Posts1,055,876
Members48,428
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#202531 03/01/2006 3:49 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 123
E
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
E Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 123
I am working on my 1950 3/4 ton p/u. I have re-done the brakes and am installing new lines. The body parts have been removed to be cleaned and primed. My questions are these...do I need to remove the rear cover of the rear end in order to drain it? Is this a smart thing to do???drain out the old fluid?? If I have to remove the cover I might as well take a look inside right? If so what should I be looking for? Is there anything I should check to make sure the rear end is ok or is there anything I should replace???it had 4.57 gears. any ideas would be welcome.
Ed

#202532 03/01/2006 4:08 AM
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
F Offline
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,029
should be a drain plug on the bottom, but if you're into it while the frame's clear, take off the cover after draining and you can see if the pot needs a bit of a flush to get rid of slug left in the bottom - only thing to look for is chipped teeth and sloppy bearings [high wear]

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics
#202533 03/01/2006 11:22 PM
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
F
'Bolter
'Bolter
F Offline
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 2,773
There is no drain plug on the 3/4 ton. Best way to drain the oil is to remove one of the bottom cover bolts. It certainly won't hurt to remove the cover and clean the bottom of the housing. Either way, when you put the bolt(s) back in they need some sealant on the threads.

Also check the vent for obstruction. It's on the top of the housing, driver's side. It unscrews, 1/4" pipe thread. Has a sheet metal fitting to keep out the dirt. If it's plugged your gear lube will expand when warm, overpressure and blow out the axle or pinion sealss.


Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
#202534 03/02/2006 1:26 AM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 445
D
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
D Offline
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 445
Put a 9" FORD readend in that sucker.


dan-pa
#202535 03/02/2006 1:41 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 78
H
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
H Offline
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 78
To drain the oil from the rearend remove the bottom bolt on rear of the housing (the bumper side). The oil will then drain. And yes sealant on the threads.
Steve


Moderated by  Gdads51 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0