The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 1951 1/2 T, Some decisions made!!!

Ok fellas, I'm sure you all have gone through this so, I just wanna' bounce some stuff off you guys and see what you come up with. It all started out as "I'll just fix a couple of things and drive it." Well....

I've got a 51 1/2T. I've taken it ALL apart down to the frame and have the cab, front fender, hood, and many other parts at the sandblaster. I will have the frame balsted and powder coated as well. Now, this will be a mild streetrod. Mild = lower stance with a choice of (because I've got all 3) 261, 283 or 327. Each needs to be rebuilt. I'M leaning towards the 261 w/S-10 5 speed = easier install + love the looks of a detailed 6. I've had a 261 rebuilt in the past and it gets pricey! Specially with the go fast goodies. However, a V8 will get me there quicker and might be less costly?!?!?

The suspension ideas I am playing with are:
1) Posies 3" lowered leafs Front & Rear. which is engineered for this suspension, front disc brakes, 57 Chevy rear housing, NON power master cylinder (who makes one that will work with the existing clutch pedal?). The existing steering box and related parts appear to be nice and tight. I will have to change the kingpins cuz the axle will be out. Front sway bar. This, should be the least costly route.

2) Chassis engineering BOLT in Mustand II type front suspension (anyone do this specific one?). Considering MANUAL rack if I go this route. Non power master. Tilt column.

3) Same as 2 but with V8.

The 3 window cab will be chopped 3.5" (?), no handles, nosed hood, one piece door glass, frenched headlights. Complete NEW bed with fenders. The one I've got can be fixed but at what cost? I think it will end up costing just slightly more if get it all new.

So, there you have it...if any of you want to share your opinions...I'm listening!

Thanks for your time.
Tom

would be many opinions,, most would say, build it like you want,, it is your baby...good luck with what ever you decide....Fred

i think chopping it wouldn't qualify as a mild rod. i think that if you go with the mustang front then go ahead and put in a v-8 but if you keep the straight axle then keep it older with the 261. and doesn't everyone have a v-8 anyway my vote is for #1

you can always get a vintage overdrive if you are just looking for highway speed.

I guess one big question is do you lean towards a modernized old truck, or a more original old truck. This is a great opportunity to make that decision before any commitments are made.

Perhaps you should find some local bolters and ride in their trucks and see what you like. Likewise how about a snoop through the gallery here on this site and see what you like. If you lean a bit one direction or the others, opinions will probably come out of the wood work.

I have a 59 1 ton, so I just put in a newer engine and better brakes. My 72 will be sort of stock with a improved 230 and a 700r4.

OK, I've decided what I'm gonna' do regarding the suspension. STOCK fron axle with disc brakes and Posies 3" lowered leafs front and rear. STOCK steering box and column. Bilstein shocks on all four corners and a sway bar up front. DONE! My chassis is being taken apart as I speak and I'm getting it powder coated next week...black of course!

Who makes a non power dual master cylinder that will work the the stock clutch set up????

Gotta go...call Posies and help take apart the chassis!

Its your truck,do it your way.I lean toward V/8 power,but thats just my way of doing things.Sounds like your gonna have a sharp truck when you get it done.GOOD LUCK

Yes do it as you see fit. Your the one that has to be happy with it not anyone else. I went with a nova front end and a LT4 and a 4L60E trans. Its not running yet but I have a friend that has done several 50s 60s chevy trucks this way and they rode great and had tons of power and you could drive them across country in comfort with reliability. Otherwise my 57 is stock looking outside with the exception of american mags.

There are lots of dual master's out there that'll work just fine on your truck.

The deal with the dual master is four things:

First, with no booster you'll need a smaller bore master.

Second, the mount- You can buy one from any number of vendors for about $100. Or you could make one if you've got a welder and can have the hole for the master drilled- Basically, a piece of steel with a hole in it and two bolt holes. Then another pieced welded at a right hand angle with two holes to mount with.

Third- You'll need the valve -residual valves front and back, proportioning valve or a combination valve and the residual valves- Check out the speedway catelog to get some ideas.

Fourth- the master cylinder itself- Pay someone to pick it for you or using the master parts catelogs at NAPA figure out which one will work for you- Shouldn't be hard, I'd start with late sixties/early seventies sedans.

EXTRA POINT- Do a search (using the button in the top right of the first forum page) on master cylinders and read every post before you do anything else- There is no substitute for good research, and this is a topic that has been covered before

PS-

You can make the T-5 Power brake thing work, you've just got to deal with the clutch arm- There are two options for that: A bent arm that avoids the problem, or a hydraulic clutch-

I built a mount to put a wilwood 3/4" cluch mastercyliner along side the brake booster.T hen I ran flex lines from it to the hydraulic throw out bearing- In fact the resevoir is right below the brake inspection cover. It's basically in the stock location for the original brake cylinder. Since the Brake Booster moved the rod towards the tranny I modified the break pedal just a little and now everythis is hidden and looks stock.

The pedal modification was simple, using a cut off wheel I cut off the tab on the bottom of the pedal that the clevis bolted to, welded in a piece of steel horizontially and then welded the original tab perpendicular to it. Basically, I moved the original tab about an inch and 1/2 to the right.

Used to look like this:

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Now it looks like this:


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The Diagram didn't come out right!

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the @@ is empty space.

i would say go with less chop, i think that a inch or maybe two would look better than 3.5 espescially with the inline 6. if you go the 261 route then i think it would be better to keep a more classic look, lowering is okay but no chop. i am just not a chopping fan i guess, i think it looks a little off. but to each his own. sounds like you have a good plan, can't wait to see some pics, maybe i will change my mind about chopping.

Why did you pick Posie's over Eaton's Rod Rides?
How much do the Posie's cost?

Facing similar decisions on my '51, and leaning toward new (lower) leafs, too...

Thanks,
mark.
51 KY 3100

Mark,
I've used Posies in the past for my CARS and they worked real well. However, when I ordered the leafs for the truck, they said they had them in stock. AFTER, I ordered them, I got a call saying they made a mistake and only have the rears and it will be a month or so before I get the front. Soooo, I called Eaton and ordered the front. Half will be from Posies and half will be from Eaton!

The price from both were identical @ $330.00 (I think).
Tom

Yowweee! This is fun!!!! I just got my cab, front fenders, running boards, doors, hood, inner fender wells, radiator surround, and many more misc. sheetmetal stuff sand blasted and powder coated epoxy promed. Some of the stuff looks NOS and some REALLY brings out the defects. However, I now know what things look like. ALSO, I just got back the frame that has been blasted and powder coated satin black. It looks like it belongs in the "show"! Also, I just got the POSIES rear 3" lowered springs w/shackles, What a quality product! AND, I just got EATONS front 3" lowered springs. They don't quite match the level of APPEARANCE of POSIES but I pray they both work well!

I'm waiting for CCP to deliver the front disc kit, sway bar, master, lowered gas shocks, tie rods, brake line kit and....I'm on my way!!!!

Guaranteed...I WILL be BROKE by he time this is done but I will have and or know of e.v.e.r.y.t.h.i.n.g. that is going on with this project. Never done anything like this before. So......darn this is fun. BTW, I don't hunt, golf, fish, go to bars (sometimes), surf, kariokee, ski, paraglide, dive, or do anthing that is supposed to be exciting. I love these old fuggers...oops! And I don't swear!

Happy birthday to me...Happy birthday to me...(Dec.21st)...Oh well.

Where are you in the project, pictures? I'm considering Bilsteins so your input is important.

I think the AD trucks look out of proportion when they are chopped more than 1 or 2". I like the stock roof height myself.

i agree with fireout1 i like the stock look, i dislike chopping

I also do not like the look of chopping on an AD. I think chopping looks best on the Task Force series and then just 1-2 inches.