The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Steering adjustment questions

Hi everyone,
A drive on a rough road today made me realize it's time to tighten up my steering. I read the chapter about steering in the service manual and the tech tip here on stovebolt about steering by Oly, and I still have a few questions.
First, I have a guess about what the pitman arm and connecting rod (Oly calls it a drag link) are, but I couldn't find a diagram to confirm this. [img]http://www.boulderbikesmith.com/images/1.jpg[/img] Is this right? If so, then how do I disconnect them from each other? I don't see the mechanism for that.
Next, how do I adjust the worm bearing thrust screw? Is there a screwdriver slot in the end of it? I can't really see it, so I can't see what's there. Also, the directions say to tighten the worm adjuster until there's no play in the worm shaft, but how do I check for play? the worm shaft is completely inside the housing.
Lastly, what is this? [img]http://www.boulderbikesmith.com/images/2.jpg[/img] It looks like a lubrication port. If it is, should I lubricate the sector while I'm at this? What should I use?
OK, I guess that ended up being more than just a few questions, so thanks in advance for your help.
-Jon Stabile
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I can help a little - yes that's the pitman and drag link, and getting the pitman off the steering box shaft requires a puller - should be able to find one at any good tool rental place, maybe even yer local NAPA - the hidden end of the drag link shouldn't be too hard to get off, but a 'pickle fork' makes it easier - the joint between the pitman and drag link is where there'll be some slop maybe, and it looks like that model there'll be a cotter holding a big slotted plug in, under which is a spring and the ball socket - can't help on how to fix that, whatever the manual sez!

on the steering box, not sure where the adjustment on yours is, but it's not likely to cause much problem - the lube in the box should be a grease, or nearly - I use moly grease to avoid the leaks these ol things always have

the sloppy parts of the steering will more likely be in that first part and in the other joints at the tie rod ends, and check the king pins while yer at it

take the question marks off and send that pic to Peggy to include in the tech tip!

Bill

I am not sure what year truck we are talking about, but from the picture you have showing the pitman arm and the corresponding connecting rod I think I can guess how they come apart. I think if look at the end of the connecting rod where it attaches to the pitman arm, you'll find a cotter key possibly and a threaded screw under that. Remove cotter key and then back out the screw and that should allow you to disconnect the connecting rod from the pitman arm.

The worm bearing thrust scrw is on the end of the steering box. There should be a lock ring you need to loosen before you can make any adjustment. This lock ring usually has notches on its outter edge that you can place a screw driver in and hit with a hammer in a counter clockwise direction to loosen. To redust worm shaft end play you turn the thrust screw clockwise. You do not what to over tighten any of these adjusters by the way. I would think if you had excessive worm gear end play you would be able to check it by pulling and pushing on your steering wheel. If you cannot pull it out and push it back any then your wormgear adjustment should be fine. Most of the time the looseness in steering is more likely due to wear in the sector gear and is adjusted with the sector lash adjustment screw. This adjuster screw is on the side of the steering box directly opposite of where your pitman arm attaches. There is also a lock nut on this screw that needs to be loosened before you can adjust the lash. I recommend you get a manual to make sure you adjust your steering box correctly. You can make things worse by over tightening these adjusters.
The red arrow does point to the fill plug for the steering box. I ordered some Penrite manual steering lube from a place in Texas called classic Auto Lubes I think. Do a such on Penrite and you find them. Good luck.

I agree with Cujo8.

I just did this adjustment on my '59 Apache steering box last week. You need to loosen the adjuster on the side first, then use a screwdriver or cold-chisel (powered by a hammer) on the base/bottom of the box to unscrew the large lock-ring counter-clockwise (looking up at it). The adjuster itself has a large slot in it which I turned clock-wise by tapping it lightly with the same hammer and cold-chisel. Don't over do it, but it should rotate a little to take some slop out. Then, tap the lock-ring back (clock-wise) 'til it's tight. Then, tighten the side adjuster clock-wise until you feel you've pushed your luck far enough. Again, don't over-do it. Tighten the lock-nut, and that's it. My steering tightened up noticeably without any binding.

Jon,

I am going to take a different path on this post. Your box is just like the picture you enclosed. Their is only one adjustment, and that is for the sector gear. The worm preload is adjusted with shims under the endcap and only addressed when rebuilding the box.

I am not sure why you want to pull the drag link and pitman arm off. Adjusting the steering does not require this to be done.

Jack the front of the truck up, loosen the locknut around the small bolt with the screwdriver slot in it. Slowly, in small steps tighten (turn it in) the bolt with the slot in it. As you make a adjustment, you MUST turn the wheel lock to lock from the cab and feel for binding.

The worm gear wears most in the "wheels straight ahead" position. If you tighten the sector to zero play in this position, you will find that as you turn the wheel, it will start to get hard.

Adjust as much free play out as you can without any binding on lock to lock movement. Do not expect to get it all out..this isn't a Swiss watch.

Don't pull the pitman arm for this procedure. Don't pull the drag link unless you are going to rebuild it...it has tons of adjustment. Pull the big cotter pin and tighten the huge screw a tad.

There is a hefty spring on the inside of of both ends...I don't think you can mash it, but don't tighten these big screw heads with a 18" cheater bar. When tight, the cotter pin should still lay in the screw slot.

Every item on the front end can wear, and when you add all this up, you get play. Nothing short of a complete rebuild with king pins and new tie rod ends will make this perfect again.

Do a search for "steering gear lubricant"..your eyes will pop out!


Stuart

Jon,

The tech tip you referred to is for a later style steering box...it does not apply to your old '41 truck. I honestly don't remember if I pulled the drag link off the pitman arm during this adjustment procedure, but in retrospect, it might be the way to go. You would eliminate any drag in the linkage etc and be able to "feel" the steering box.

Stuart

Thanks Everyone,
That gives me all the info I needed, plus a bunch more. I should have mentioned from the start that my truck is a 42 3/4-ton special with the saginaw box, so Oly's article was just the thing. It's also clear and well written, and just about exactly matches the service manual version, minus a couple of steps that seemed superfluous anyway, and with the addition of the great last step. I just was looking for clarification on a couple points not mentioned specifically in either Oly or the service manual.
Also, in case it was causing any confusion, that first picture I included is of a COE truck. It just was the clearest photo I could find of the pitman arm and drag link.
-Jon

Hy jon, I agree with most of whats been said here with the following exception, your freeplay should be removed with the wheels in the straight ahead position only, the steering box is designed to be tighter in the straight ahead position, it gets progressively looser as you get to the end of its travel. As for lube I would not use any type of "grease" I would use whatever lube the manual recomends, or the brand name lube mentioned in the other posts, "grease will not flow into the ball nut circuits and thus the balls and grooves will wear, hope this helps.

Boy did I get a "F" in steering gear 101 or what! Well, at least I know how not to do it. My apologies to the Tech Tip guru's. :rolleyes:


Stupid-Stoo

FYI
it looks like Bikesmith has a 1942 Chevy Stakebed