The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Picking your brain

Hi, I want to bring my truck'26 inside, I removed the bed and most of the cab. Yes made drawings of everything and lots of pictures. The problem, it can't roll on its own wheels, no tires in the rear and the differential will touch the ground. Front side could roll on the ”flat” tires, steering works a bit. Have a look at the picture
[img]http://web.shockware.com/users/rosielle/tn_chevtruck.jpg[/img]
It's sitting on a few pallets and I got it there with a big tractor. The tractor is too big for the shop and the small one I was going to use is not strong enough to lift the whole truck. To make sure I still can use the shop I need the truck in the far corner of course.
So what can you come up with? Lifting by hand, too heavy! Putting the back on a cart of some kind, too risky for one person to move the truck that way and too heavy to push the whole construction. I had the back in the loader, but I can only get about 10 feet in the shop that way. It needs to go in at least 40 feet. :confused:

Give me your 2 cents Please

Richard

Jack it up with a floor jack, get two 55gal drums and a some 4x4's. Set the drums on the outside, set it down on the beam. Slide a old snomobile trailer under it.(set it on the trailer) Now get behind it with your 3pt blade and give her a shove. Oh yeah, strap the trailer to the frame...

-RT1
*

Thanks, but we're farmers. The smallest trailer I can get my hands on is 25 feet and a fifth wheel. I thought about working on the trailer but it's too wide to fit in with the rest. I guess I can always rent one in town @ 80 miles distance. We'll keep this option open for now. In the meantime I came up with this, dig a ditch for the differential and just roll it on its rims. The shop has a dirt floor, we are poor farmers. And the ground is frozen, no heat in there, but at least I would be out of the wind and snow. We’ll keep this as last option, because I’m afraid to wreck the rims doing it. I will probably roll it in with a few 2x4’s under the rims. Unless somebody else has a good idea?
The trailer thing is very doable and save, but I hate to drive 80 miles to get a trailer, move truck’26 and drive the trailer back. That’s 320 miles to move a truck 50 feet. :confused:

Regards
Richard

put it back together and build a building around it..

That’s one of the long-term plans here, and then I don’t have to stack three trucks and all the equipment in that shop. I had planned another spot for it though.
And all those nice plans and pictures of shops you guys show in the Bolt aren’t helping either. But with snow on the ground here I have all the time to work on the engine and the transmission, as soon as the weather gets warm again the farm demands all the time.
Ok, I’ll keep this as the absolute last solution :rolleyes:

Thanks
Richard

Richard,

I didn't see any mention of the makeup of the terrain, so I don't know if this is a viable option, but we routinely moved vehicles around the shop using only floor jacks.

One under the differential is the steering jack and the two under the front axle are the pushing jacks..or, if the front wheels WILL turn, the single jack under the differential will do the trick.


Stuart

Yank an axle from the trailer and strap it under the back of the truck and push it in.

That's when I found out that the terrain is pretty rough and I was glad I put some fill wood under the wheels and that I was at the front pushing. Which made me think that there should be a smarter way to do it. I tryed hooking up the rear to the rear of my truck and push it in, but the snow made me slip and now I'm looking for a new rear light cover :rolleyes: I guess I have to wait till the snow is gone and make a better rigg for the pickup to push it in, maybe a small boom in the box so I have some play when I need to make corrections and push it with a 2x4 to keep some space between truck'26 and dodgy although rear lights might be cheaper per pair

Thanks guys

I bet you could rig up a dolly for the rear with a few borrowed tires off of wheelbarrels(or some other piece of farm equiptment) and a little imagination.Once its in, you can jockey it around with planks on the ground and a floor jack.

got a pallet jack? know anybody near that has one? worth their weight to have one around - otherwise just make a small dolly w/ 4 large diameter swivel caster and put that under the rear, also a handy thing to have around

Bill

get steel plates and cut bolt holes in them (two bolt holes would do. Then get space saver spares and weld the plates on the spares and bolt them on. then you can roll the truck around

I love pallets, it's my main construction material and it's free. I guess I have to make a dolly and spent some money on it. It will come in handy anyway.
Thanks guys, now I'm sure I thought of all possible solutions. My welder is toast, so I might as well get a new one, I have seen the topic here on the forum somewhere.

Regards
Richard

Truck,

If snow and cold temps are involved, why couldn't you make a ice road out of packed snow and a water spray. Would the rig slip down the ice road with little effort.

Stuart

LOL and slide right in to the shop and work on ice all winter

Richard(Truck26),Harbor Freight has cheap dollies made with steel plates and 4 casters that look like they would bolt under your pallets(see Red58's idea).I also use pallets for lots of things.Even used them as cribbing in aircraft recoveries at our local SHORT runway.In the shop,they make great work benches if you square them up then cover them with 1/2 inch plywood and some 4x4 legs.Good firewood for the woodstove when they get too shabby.Stuart's ice road has merrit.Note to self,open door at REAR of shop to allow vehicle to pass through!Good Luck

Have a neighbor come over with a skid steer and drag it on in there,
Scott

gtow69: I was searching on the site of "Princess Auto" but I'll have a look there too. Thanks

Scott: Not enough height unfortunately. That's what I planned to do. It's an overhead door and I like to be able to close it

Hey Richard,
I once had to move a 52 GMC 1 ton with the rear diff taken apart (no wheels) and the front wheels flat. I had to get it up on an 18 foot trailer. The guy I bought it from had a truck with a cherry picker on it. We first wrapped a sling around the front bumper and lifted it up. Backed the trailer under, still, only the front wheels were up on the trailer. Next, we wrapped a couple slings around the rear part of the frame and lifted that up and slid it over until the front wheels started rolling and with a little adjustment, the truck was on the trailer. I guess my idea is, there has got to be people down there that have cherry pickers on there trucks. Even the propane guys have cherry pickers on some of their flat deck trucks to lift those giant propane tanks. Still might cause a problem once it is in the shop. How tall is your overhead door? Best of luck.
Colin

He Colin,
Getting it off the trailer is the problem, the door is only 10 feet and once opened it blocks 11 feet of ceiling after that it's about 16-17 feet high. That's why I took the cab and box of outside, but now the "small" tractor can't lift it. I'll do the dolly thing with "big and wide" wheels so they will roll well on dirt.

I know its already been said but Harbor freight has cheap casters, those and some lumber should work for the amout of use it will get. Once on the dolly if your alone and can anchor it a come along will work.

Harbor freight is not in Canada I just found out, but they should, lots of nice stuff

Thanks another website to check I like it

We have moved heavy machinery by just placing pipes underneath and pushing. In your case you would probably have to place a couple planks under the pallets, and the pipes under the planks. The pipes roll with the movement. You would just have to keep picking up the pipes one at a time as it rolls off of them and placing it at the front, (careful not roll over your hand). You may need 6 or more lengths of pipe of the same diameter, and it would be best to chain it to, and push with some type of vehicle. Your small tractor may not be able to lift it, but I bet it will be strong enough to push it. Thats if you can get enough traction. If the ground is soft, or very uneven, you may have to place the pipes on wooden planks or sheets, so they would roll easier.

He that's a good tip Lucas, I'll have to try that.
Plenty of plywood here
Thanks
Richard

Richard,

You could make a sled with all that wood around there and slide it on in.

Or you could jack up the truck frame and rest it on the rear bumper of your truck and back it slowly into the barn.

Where there's a will there's a way.

Used to work for a company that installed package boilers, sometimes in impossibly tight spaces. What would work for you is to chain a snatch block at the bottom of a post at the back of the space you want the truck in. Run a cable from the back of the truck, around the snatch block (pulley or shieve in some areas) and then back out of the building to as big a tractor or truck as it takes to move it. If you don't have a solid enough anchor in the building park something really heavy outside the back wall and make a hole just big enough to run a chain through to hold the snatch block. The higher you can mount the block the more the cable will pull up on the rear of the frame. I don't know how much your old truck weighs but we skidded boilers that weighed 40,000 pounds with this method. Good luck

You guys are making this so much more complicated than it needs to be. Couldn't you just pick it up, set it on your shoulders and carry it in the shop like a bag of grain? How hard could it be?

Better yet, before you go to bed, say a prayer to the Lord and ask him if he could do a quick favor for you and put it in the shop.

Anyway, good luck, and be carefull!

- Shane

My brain was in neutral last night, I forgot to add if you use a block and tackle with more pulleys each additional set of pulleys will cut the effort in half (remember high school physics?) and that would make it to where your small tractor would do the job.

Hi Thanks, I used to be a building engineer, so I know that trick.
It's snowing again so I'll be behind the computer most of the time when I'm not watching pregnant cows for any signs of labour and trouble or bugging my horses. :rolleyes: I’ll make a dolly or a sled and push it in with the tractor, but not today.
I’ll be reading up on how to.., trying to find Maple wood and a price for it and finish my drawings of the cab and box, so I can send them to KC-wood.
Thank you all for the help, I thought I might miss something, but we all had the same ideas.

regards
Richard

How about 3 aluminum toboggans and push it with the small tractor?

LOL
it weighs more than 3000 pounds now if the little tractor can't lift it, I'll need a few more.

I used to know a man who moved his travel trailer in and out of his garage with some home made wheels made out of thick plywood.His door was too low so he made little wheels to make it fit.

get a bunch of timbers and make an old fashioned rolling machine. the only problem will be coming up with the necessary slave labor, the eqyptians had easier access. seriously i would go to a uhaul place and get a small trailer, or if you have an equipment rental place i would try there. sorry, i am not much help.

Go to the local high school and recruit about twenty of the football players to stop out and carry it in there and set it wherever you want it.
Scott

Bullet: for a onetime exercise too much trouble.
Fort Knox: that’s 320 miles for 50 feet
Scott: local? We are glad we still have a school here; once they hit high school they are off to the “big” city( a 1.000 people at 35 miles) and usually stay there or go on to a real city.

This is rural, the next neighbour to the south 1 mile (the guy I work for), to the north 2 miles, to the east 5 miles and to the west 6 miles, nearest shop at 17 miles, closest real town 80 miles This is very rural, just as I like it , but you have to go a long way to get something from a shop. That’s why we like our neighbours. I’ll rig up a sledge like thingy for the differential, hold it in place with some chains and then push it in the shop, jack it up and put it on 30” stands until the engine runs and the wheels have tires. I never thought that it would be that heavy or I would have done it different. I was just thinking that if I’m not the brightest bulb in the pack, let ask some bulbs that have faced this problem before. But with no resources available it’s just back to basics and get it in there. I’ll use an old cultivator disk as bottom plate; drill some holes in there to connect to a wooden shoe like thing that holds the differential.
Thank you all for your help, I’ll take pictures and post them here or on the website.

Regards
Richard