The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 1953 chevy 12 volt starter

I converted my truck to 12 volts and every once in a wile I have to take my starter off and take it back to the shop for a rebuild, the selonoid is usually the culprit. If not the starter it'sthe ignition switch. I am using that universal type switch.I sometimes goes out only in one of the positions the start position, has anyone had this problem?

is it a 6 or 12V starter? - or more important, a 12V solenoid? what engine? how much cranking does it take to start it? if you're burning out solenoids and switches on a recurring basis there's definitely a problem somewhere and it's likely to be excessive current flow

Bill

lock,

Would it be possible to expound on your problem..I don't seem to be able to grasp the thought. :confused:


Stuart

The solenoid is 12 volt, so is the starter. The switch I am using is 2 volts. I have a balls resister in the system. The engine I am using is a 235 full oil pres.the ignition switch has 5 wires in the back of it. The cheap universal ones you get from auto zone.

lock,

Pretty good expounding! When things quit working, what do you always seem to replace to get back on the road. I think you are saying the starter quits working, you take it to the shop and the put a new solenoid on it, then it works fine for awhile.

The solenoid is an inductive load (I think)..it's just a big magnetic coil around a movable core..not to prone to breaking, BUT, there are copper discs that take a zapping every time you start the rig. When these get melted or crusty from arcing, the solenoid clicks, but won't pass current to the starter motor proper to spin it...does this sound like what is happening?

I might be nuts again, but I thought there was a MOV or capacitor thingy that you could attach across the Batt lug and the starter lug to help quench the arc when starting. Richard..where are you!

Stuart

I am maryland, when things quit working I replace either the switch or have the starter looked at , the problem is usually the solenoid. before I start having I do get the clicking once or twice then it will start.once and a while I have to start it at the solenoid.

lock,

Solenoids can be problematic. There wouldn't be a chance that the ballast resistor was installed in the key switch line to the starter would their. This would not be right.

If the solenoid clicks, that means it is being pulled in by the key, it just isn't closing the contacts to spin the starter. This truck, unless a automatic, usually doesn't come with a key type starter. I don't know if this is possible, but if the starter drive gear was prevented from moving its full travel, maybe it is restricting the movement of the solenoid plunger which would tend to hold the internal switch open and possibly cause these problems.

As you mentioned, a funky key switch could be a problem, but if you hear the click of the solenoid, that means it is trying to pull in.

The solenoid circuit, after a momentary inrush, doesn't consume much current.

I would make sure all my battery cables were of ample size and in good condition, with good connections.

If you can upgrade to a better quality switch, and have the fellow working on the starter dissect the solenoid for a post mortem, it might give you some clues as to the cause of the problem.

Stuart

The ballast resistor what line should it be installed on? I think it is connected to the switch. This switch I have has 5 wires coming out of it.

lock,

If it's an aftermarket switch as you indicate, it might have four positions..OFF-START--RUN--ACCESSORY. I couldn't identify all five wires, but you should have at least this configuration. One wire to the solenoid from the START position. This wire should have NO resistors etc in it. In the RUN position, there should be a wire going to the coil WITH the ballast resistor in series. There will probably be another wire on the RUN terminal that goes to a alternator or a regulator.

Some of the other wires might come off the ACCESSORY post of the key switch to power things like a radio or such. A inexpensive circuit tester (under $10 bucks) is indispensable when tracking down this type of problem.

There can be other wires on the switch, but you should have at least what I mentioned. Keep at it...

Stuart

I always put a Ford type selinoid in the circuit. This takes all the load off the ign. switch & compensates for any resistance. Mount it close to the starter & run a 10-12 gauge wire from the main bat cable connection to a large post on the selenoid. Connect the start wire from the switch to the S term. Run a 10/12 gauge wire from the S term on the selenoid on the starter to the other large post. You can also use the I term for a bypass .