The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Carb Help

I'm replacing the carb on my 70 chevy. I'm putting in a Holley 670. Taking out 770. The instructions say not to hook the carb positive wire to the distributer because it bleeds off to much power and affects the spark plugs. it says to hook up to windshield wipers or another accessory. Oh yeah the carb I'm replacing is hooked up to the distributer. Any suggestions?

Run a wire from the B+ terminal on the choke element to the fuse block and hook it up to one of the terminals that say's Ignition. You can also test the terminal to be sure their is current only when the key is on and not also when it's in the accessory position. If it also has juice in the Acc position you WILL burn out the heating element in the choke.

Here's another method, which is what the manufacturers do with electric-heated chokes: Use a switch activated by oil pressure. If the engine stalls during warm-up, the choke heater disconnects. It's also a positive way to be sure the heater only works when the engine's running. Tap into the oil gallery where your oil pressure line connects, and use the switch that's found just above the oil filter on a late-model V-8. There are 3 terminals, one which grounds the idiot light, and a normally-open set of contacts. Connect one to a fused lead connected to battery or ignition voltage, and the output lead to the hot wire on the choke. The choke heater works only when there's oil pressure present.
Jerry