The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1/2 ton springs

I have often read of people replacing their springs or having them re arched
during a rebuild. When I bought my 58 1\2 ton it had no box but the truck
seemed to sit very level and at about the right height .
My question How do you really tell if you need to replace or re arch your springs.
I plan on taking them off to clean\paint and probably install the teflon
between the leaves . Do I really need to do more?

When you remove the springs, take a good look at the bushings in the main leaf where the spring pins fit. If they are worn you will need to have them re-bushed. My fronts were worn past the bushings and into the leaf itself. In that case you will need new main leafs.

If they look good and the truck was sitting level, I would re-finish and re-use the springs.

Others may differ but I have never had any luck with re-arching. After a time the metal will sag again. Most times, for the price of dis-assembly and re-arching you can buy a brand new set of springs.

thanks for all the suggestions. i thought about the rearching thing but heard mixed reviews about that i am going to see if those fronts work. and yes i did replace the bushings. darn near lost my hearing by trying to pound the old ones out and pound in the new ones. any tips for replacing the rear ones on the frame/ didnt do those yet cause i couldnt figure out what i would need to get them out.

Mike, Read the link that Dusty posted. I made one of Boyo's bushing pullers and believe me, it was the ticket. It should also be a lot easier on your hearing ....

Great idea. I am going out today to get my "tool". This same problem has had me stalled for a while.

To install new bushings, why can't you use same bolt but substitute the new bushing put large washers and nut on back side of mounting and head on bolt on new bushing and "drive" it in by tightening the bolt? To protect the bushing use a copper washer like used on oil pan drain plugs or make you own out of several layers of roof flashing. Apply greas to the outer side of the new bushing.

To reduce chance of breaking bolt:

1. Use grade 8 hardware (5 nicks on head vs. 3 for grade 5)

2. Use fine thread vs course

Grade 8 hardward is a little more difficult to find but my Pep Boys store has a good selection. Also try Ag and Contruction equipment dealers (the "Green Guys" tend to have a very good selection at fair prices)

I just took my springs all apart, sanded and painted on before I stopped and took them to the spring shop for re-arching. I had each one labeled as to location. When I got them back, there were painted leaves mixed in all sets. I was told this is done to insure truck sits level when springs are reinstalled. He said it also helps to redistribute leaves from the right side abuse that is normal.

Maybe old wives tale but he was an old timer.

By the way, here's a good link to go along with Boyo's article.

Shackle Tool

When I rebushed, I used a piece of grade 8 all thread and an impact socket slightly smaller than the new bushing. Then I used some good nuts and my impact wrench with a deep socket to power 'em out. Like duck soup....