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#19520 08/28/2004 2:10 PM | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Member | | Member Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 | What do you have to do to rebuild a distributor?
Do you just take it apart, clean and re-lube everything?
Winona
1949 3100 5 Window Deluxe Cab
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#19521 08/28/2004 9:47 PM | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | Thats basically it. Check for worn bushings. Make shure the gear is in good condition & fits tight on the shaft. Replace the points & cond. & put a small amount of grease on the cam. Better yet put in a electronic conversion kit. 
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | |
#19522 08/29/2004 1:39 AM | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 208 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 208 | In the shop manuel there's a description of checking and rebuilding the distributor, I think.
I think that the springs are supposed to be changed. They pull the weights back as the rpm's decrease, changing the timing as the engine slows.
You've got to make sure the weights don't bind anywhere or else they'll cause the advance/retard action the weights control to not work properly. There's also information about electrical insulation between the distributor housing and the 'lectric in the distributor.
Bushings should be changed, too.
This is why I bought a rebuilt distributor. I put it in the 216 in my '46, timed it, set the gap on the points and after figuring out that I had two plug wires crossed, the old mill starts on the first revolution and runs better than it ever has since I've gotten the truck three years ago!
The rebuilt distibutor came with new points and condenser and the grease cup was full!
I changed the distributor because I couldn't tune the engine well enough to provide easy starting. I knew the bushings were worn as the distibutor shaft had a lot of side to side play which changes the dwell. It had been so long since someone tightened the grease cup cap to lube the distributor shaft, the cap was frozen to the cup!
Jacques
Union, Justice and Confidence
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#19523 08/29/2004 2:11 PM | Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2000 Posts: 2,773 | I, too, bought a rebuilt. The shaft on mine was worn and needed a new bushing. Cost 5 years ago was $25, think they're up to about $40 now.
If you're installing an ignition module, the shaft needs to be checked. If it's loose, you will destroy the module.
If you go to rebuild one yourself, to disassemble it you need to remove the plate, then drive out a pin that retains the drive gear.
Fred
52 3600
69 C-10
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#19524 08/30/2004 5:03 PM | Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 Member | | Member Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 117 | Thank guys. I ahve a "spare" I'll practice on, then if I mess up I can discard the failure.
Winona
1949 3100 5 Window Deluxe Cab
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