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Doing a complete tune-up on my 261. New plugs, points, condenser, carb rebuild, etc. However, when setting the timing, I plugged the vac line to the distributor and aimed the light at the steel ball on the flywheel. It was off just a little bit. Tried to move the distributor to line the ball and the pointer up and the distributor won't move any further in the necessary direction. Moves great in the other direction. It may be possible that the P.O. had the distributor out since this 261 is a replacement short block. Is a degree to two going to be a problem (especially with higher rpm's)or should I try to ensure that the distributor teeth are correctly aligned. If so, what is the correct procedure for doing that? Thanks!

Hmmm... I don't know if yours has a octane selector. If so, make sure that it is set to zero before adjusting the timing.

There are multiple procedure for resetting the distributor. I do this way:

1) Find TDC on #1 plug... I remove the #1 plug, then I use a long straw and watch it come up as I bump the engine over or turn it with a wrench on crank.

2) Once you have TDC on #1, then reset the distributor where the rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap. It's a little tricky since the groves (at the bottom of the distributor) are angled. So you have to play with it... set it in a little before as it drops it will turn the rotor a little.

This is the way I've done it. It's not the only way, but it works for me. Anyone else have a easier / better idea?

Good Luck!

Where did you plug the vacuum line? on the dist. side or at the carb?
(should be at the carb)

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Did you set the octane selector to zero,secure that bolt.There is a screw just under the main part of the dist. housing that needs to be loosened to adjust the timing.It is like a clamp around the distributor housing shaft.

I would unclamp the dist and pull it up just enocugh to go one toothe in the desired direction. If you don't pull it up too high and keep a slight downward pressure you can feel it jump the one tooth.

49Geezer , your dist should go in almost a circle ( save for the grease cup getting in the way ). I think you need to check which bolts are hloding you up .
If you follow Grants suggesting , then you will need to pull the dist right out and put a screwdriver down the hole to move the oil pump drive slot a little so it will line up with the dist new position .
I dont think you should have to pull the dist .

Have we done a good job of confusing you Geezer? What did you decide to try?

Had to do a smiley face because I surpassed my earlier stupidity and figured out what I was doing. Used to have a 65 Chevy Belair and tuned it up all the time. That was in the old days before I forgot all I used to know and now my '01 Jeep Cherokee goes to the garage because they have the "Code" interpreter. Anyway, found out the following:
1. Was turning the distributor hold down clamp and not the screw which allows you to set the timing. Stupid Me!
2. Adjusted the timing to the ball on the flywheel. Ran ok but the engine was giving a little backfire so I did what a lot of people advise--adjusted and advanced the timing until it sounded right (about 5 degrees). Ran fine then. Vacuum gauge loved me and wasn't reading "late ignition timing". The distributor was okay and dind't need to move the teeth at all. Rebuilt the old Rochester carb with a kit and took it out for a good run. Worked great but I agree with Tom Langdon--"All inline engines were under carb'ed to sacrifice economy. So, next question, has anyone bought Tom's 2 barrel Holly/Weber carb and bolted it onto the original manifold with the 2 to 1 adapter? Am thinking I may want to do this but would appreciate feedback. Tom also recommended possibly using a 292 single carb because it has better fuel/air delivery than even the Holley. Any advice on this?? Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction.