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| | | Forums66 Topics128,113 Posts1,056,279 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 | Hello fellow bolters!!! I need answers to a few questions. Go ahead and take a stab at one or all…
1. Any tricks on installing the rear window? The rubber is just an extrusion and is not molded to the correct shape. It also is missing the holes for the screws. I have heated the rubber and tugged and pulled and still can’t get the rubber lined up enough to get all the screws thru the rubber and into the pot metal piece. Any help? 2. The front window,,, must you separate the window frame into two and insert the glass with window tape then put it back together? Or can you get the glass into the frame while it is in one piece? It looks like mine is welded together in the middle. Any help? 3. I find I have a gap of about 1/8” between the top inside, elbowed, molding pieces to the top of the door. These are the pieces that are painted the hammered tan color originally. There is a screw hole right at that point. I must be missing something??? A bracket or something? I would have thought that they would have had one piece overlap the other. I hope I described it well enough. Any help? 4. At the threshold there is a rubber weather strip. Do you use the same weather strip behind the vertical strip at the door jam by the kick panel? 5. Does the large beaded wind lace mount behind the inside door molding and the door panel on the door? 6. OK that’s enough for now.
If anyone has any detail interior Pics of their truck that would be great. I’m putting this ’40 together and it was a basket case when I got it. So I’m a bit confused on how it goes together with out seeing an example.
Thanks for any help!!! | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 338 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 338 | Hey Kevin,
Sounds like you're getting close.
I have a 1940 3/4 ton that is in original condition. I can take some pics if it helps. Most of the original rubber is gone so I don't know how much it will help.
Greg | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 | Greg, Close is a relative term! I spent two days this weekend working full time on the truck and you would be hard pressed to see what I did. For such a simple truck there are so many small parts!
Pics would be great! If you like you can e-mail me. Thanks! | | | | | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 331 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 331 | Hi Kevin As for the first ? it's been so long since I took mine apart that i don't remember 2 Yes you have to take the two frame pieces apart. There are two angled rods that join the two halfs together, wich are screwed through the frame and into the rods. Use lots of penatrating oil and a little heat if need be to get them apart 3 Yes there is a small metal piece that goes over this, they are the same trough 46 4 I can't remember for my 40 but I just did my 46 and it was one piece of rubber that went from floor to floor, if i rememder corectly the 40 used a cloth covered weather seal the windlace goes around the door opening not around the door molding and panel If you need any pics i will gladly go out and take some and send them to you Stuart | | | | | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 331 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 331 | Was thinking more about the rear window i am sure that the rubber is the same shape as the window and the glass slides into a grove plus all the holes are there. Went out to the garage and yes it is like this. The holes on the one side of the rubber are factory couter sunk also, as the one I have is original and in realy good shape. So you might have the wrong one. Stuart | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 | Thanks for the reply Stuart. The rear window rubber I bought may be a cheap version of the original. I may do some more shopping and see if I can find the oval shaped rubber with the pre drilled holes.The one I have is just going to be impossible to install correctly. I will make sure that the vendor I purchased it from hears of my disapointment in the product. I wouldn't want another stovebolter to buy the same rubber. Pics would be great, especially on the small piece that covers the gap. I may have this part in a box somewhere and just don't know what it looks like.
Thanks again! | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | Hi Kevin I am at about the same stage as you - reassembling my '40. I have a few pics of the interior I can send to you - whats your EMail ? I too am struggling with the rear window rubber. Purchased mine from Carter. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 338 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 338 | Kevin,
Let us know which vendor you used, I'd like to avoid the problems you're having. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 | I think that you have to do a lot of research before you buy parts. In this case I didn't do enough. I don't want to bad mouth any vender here because I have bought from all and they have been all helpful, but the facts are the facts, some vendors have better parts for this and another has better parts for that... I bought my rear window rubber from Jim Carter. I wouldn't recommend it. I have found that American has the same stuff. (American has a Pic of it in the on-line catalog if you want to see it). The cost: JC was 15.95. American $18.00. The Filling Station $65.20. Chevy’s of the 40’s $47.50. I would think that because the price is double for the last two that the quality is probably better. I will be calling direct and asking questions before I purchase again. I do appreciate all Pics… please send to [email protected]Thanks guys!!! | | | | | Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 331 Member | | Member Joined: Jun 2003 Posts: 331 | Steele rubber makes there own stuff and they do a lot of research so they get things right. There price is also 62.50 Good luck | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 170 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 170 | I don't know if this is any help, but here is a link to my webshots page with photos of my '40 GMC. http://community.webshots.com/user/ndnchf steve | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 | Steve, I have seen this slide show before... Nice truck! thanks for reminding me. Seeing nice trucks like this is needed to get the inspiration to keep going.
It turns out that I was missing some interior moldings and I found out that where I picked up my truck some of the moldings are still there. I will get them in the future. Who knows what else I'm missing... time will tell.
When you don't have an example to look at and you didn't take it apart, and you don't have all the parts, it makes it hard to get it back together.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
Keep sending those Pics! | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 170 | Update time... Sublime, since you e-mailed me the Pics of your interior, and I could see the small part I was missing, I searched thru the buckets of bolts and such, and found those little parts. Thanks for taking the time to take Pics of yours so I could find mine!
I got the rear window finally installed with a rubber molding from "Chevys of the 40's". This rubber was a bit smaller in crosssection but installed much better then the one from JC. I just hope that once installed it doesn't leak. Rain will tell. Thanks again all for the help. Long live Stovebolt.com!!! | | |
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