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| | Forums66 Topics126,780 Posts1,039,292 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 19 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 19 | I am trying to remove the rear brake shoes on a '50 3/4 ton. It says in the manual to "remove brake shoe pin lock and pin..."
Anybody know what they are talking about? There's no illustration of these parts.
Is there an online parts illustration of them? | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 221 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 221 | I would assume they are talking about the small pin that goes thru the shoe and backing plate.to remove it yo grab the little washer looking thing on the end with a pair of pliers and push in and turn approx. 1/2 turn to line up the slot and it will pop right off. | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 | Here is a very poor picture. [img] http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d800bcc54.jpg[/img] The brake shoe hold down spring cup has a slot in the center. The hold down pin will go throught the center of the hold down spring and retainging cup then through the slot. Then the retaining cup will need to be rotated 1/4 turn to lock in place. I would suggest that you go to your local Auto parts store and ask to see either a "break down" diagram of a rear brake set up or a standard rear brake hold down kit. Then you will get a better idea of what is going on. Good Luck
Brian Moore 1949 3100 5 window Deluxe "Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow" | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 19 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 19 | Thanks but that isn't it. On the rear brakes of the 3/4 ton, there are no hold downs like that. There are in the front. The shoes are pinned to articulating joints which can only be driven out toward the inside of the truck. This is not possible until the assembly is removed from the backing plate. I am trying to avoid removing the axle shaft and hub but if I do that, I can remove the entire two-shoe assembly in one piece and work on the bench.
The seal is leaking badly, so maybe I will have to remove the hub anyway. Nevertheless, the manual says the shoes can be removed with the hub in place.
These Huck brakes are not very standard: at least not anymore. I'd bet the local auto store won't have a clue. | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 | You are right about that unless they have an OLD parts guy! Ok I broke out my shop manual. There should still be some type of hold down in the center of the shoe. It may just be a spring. However there shoud be a removable clip on the linkage conecting to the shoe. But I am getting ahead of myself. You should have already removed all the return springs thus freeing up the top of the shoes. Then go half way down the shoe and remove the "hold down spring" and this should allow the shoes to be pulled away from the WC. Once you get to this point you should be able to remove the shoes and linkage off of the anchor pin. The linkage can then be removed from the shoes by prying off the clips holding the articulating link pins. I hope that this helps. Goodluck
Brian Moore 1949 3100 5 window Deluxe "Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow" | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 19 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 19 | Thanks for the second try but still, there really aren't any hold down springs on the rear shoes. They don't have holes for them either. In fact, I got new hold downs from Chevy Duty and they claim the rear doesn't get any.
I am going to pull the hubs. Then I can get everything apart. Once I do that, I may find the "correct" way without removing the hubs. If I do, I will post it.
Thanks again. | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 | Do you have the 48 to 51 shop manual? if so look at page 5-18 figure 38 Also look at figure 37 These may help you.
Good luck
Brian Moore 1949 3100 5 window Deluxe "Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow" | | | | Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 9 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Aug 2004 Posts: 9 | I agree overtime. I have a 49 3/4 ton and the rear does not have hold downs. Never have understood why the manual says there are hold downs. | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 2 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 2 | Coincidentally, I am also in the process of rebuilding the brakes on the rear end of my 1950 3/4 ton Chevrolet pickup. I have succcessfully managed to remove the shoes from the brake assembly - but unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures, or detailed notes - and I don't remember all of the steps that I went through to get the shoes off. I had the brake shoes relined, and now I am ready to re-assemble the whole unit, but unfortunately, I don't remember how it all fits together. I am looking for detailed photo's or technical drawings of the hub and brake assembly, but I have not had any luck. Both Chevy shop manuals that I have are completely devoid of the desired information for my year and make. If anyone knows where I could find a drawing or photo of the components, I would be very happy to learn of such.
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| | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 | xsfnrg Welcome to the Bolt. I only have a 1/2 but if you have some(or could take some) photos of what you have I may be able to help you out by lookng at what you have. No gauruntees but I would be more then glad to see what you have and try to help.
Brian Moore 1949 3100 5 window Deluxe "Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow" | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 Member | Member Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 622 | I take a digital pic of the entire mechanism BEFORE I begin taking it apart so that I know where everything goes. If you do this you won't need directions.
delete my account and pictures
| | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 452 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 452 | Sounds like Huck Brakes. The bothe shoes are held to the backing plate by one 1/2" pin at the bottom. There is a circular clip that holds the pin. The hard part is getting the clip off. It has a narrow and a wide side. The narrow side is pried away from the brake shoes and the clip is slid towards the wide side. The narrow part should be identifiable by a bump in its middle. Use pliers to turn the pin until the bump is at the bottom, then use a screwdriver to pry off the clip and remove the pin. The shoe assembly will then fall on your head! Make sure the truck is VERY secure on stands, as the only way to see these parts is to be on your back with your head directly under the backing plate! Hope this helps! 
Current fleet (subject to change w/o notice) \'49 GMC 3/4-Ton , 60 Austin Healey Frog-eye Sprite (some assembly required), 2011 Dodge Avenger, 2015 Jeep Cherokee. No, they don't all run. My other ride is a (B737)no, (B767)no, A320.... Update... was Embraer E190, now Boeing B787. Knowledge is a wonderful thing, but ignorance means you don't know you can't do something.
| | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 | Highflyer the shop manual that I have dosen't have a detail enough photo to tell if there was a clip on the bottom pin. You can see (barely) that there are clips on the upper ends of the linkage (holding the linkage to the shoe).
Overtime let me know if you need replacement clips I may have some depending on the size.
Brian Moore 1949 3100 5 window Deluxe "Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow" | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 19 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 19 | Whew! I never expected all these responses. I will take some digital photos before completing disassembly and post them.
Brian, thanks for the offer! I don't think I would like to rely on the old clips. I will want to replace all of them. I think at least one other guy here is doing the same thing. I don't like to turn down such a kind offer but I think we need to locate a suitable commercial replacement, since so many may be needed. Chevy Duty doesn't list them.
Brian, do you have a supply of them? Enough for a few trucks?
I called C-D and they referred me to another company who referred me to another ... None of them had the clips. The last link was Carter's which I will call but seem to remember that several guys had problems with them.
By the way, all pins have clips. There seem to be two sizes. | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 960 | Maybe someone can give a reason why but I don't know why you could not use either an "E" clip or an external locking ring/clip. As for the old clips I have 3 sizes (I think) and maybe enought to do a truck or two. Get me a count and I will see exactly how many I have. I am not advertising this place but I used to deal with Northwestern Auto Parts (near or in ) Grand Rapids Michigan. Ask for Sam (if he is still there). If they have them they won't be cheap, nothing there is cheap!
Brian Moore 1949 3100 5 window Deluxe "Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow" | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 19 Junior Member | Junior Member Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 19 | I'm going to check out the E-clip method. Seems like it should work. Or else, I could maybe use what they call a "snapring" in the USA and a "circlip" in England. OK. I have a couple of British motorcycles. You get to know their terminology after a while. Open the bonnet (hood) and pass me the 1/2" spanner (wrench).
Thanks again. | | |
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