The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop V8 Swap Setup / Angles

I'm plotting a V8 & OD conversion for my '51 3100. How critical is getting the motor level (front to rear) in the final setup?

I'm planning to drop the front 2-3", either with a dropped axle or dropped springs. If I set up my motor mounts and transmission crossmember so that the carb pad is level now, will I be "close enough" when I've dropped the front? Or should I try to compensate, by raising the rear (or letting the air out of the front tires...)?

Thanks,
mark.
'51 3100

I would set the motor in place and try to get it as level as possible and centered with the rearend. Any radical angles can create vibrations due to the pinion angle with the rearend. Once the motor is in place, verfiy "all" your clearances with the steering, fan/radiator, firewall, floor, exhaust, etc before bolting/welding it into it's final place. The more you modify (steering, rearends, etc) the more it makes sense to tack things in place and think through how each component will work in relation to the others. The best bet is to look at similar configurations with the same motor and transmission, etc and look for potential gotchas.

Hope this helps a little...

-Rich

Hey! I am in the process of picking up a 95 Chevy 350 and (hoping) to install it in my 63 Fleetside (shortwheel base).I'm hoping I won't encounter to much in the difficulty area. Any suggestions?

Just wondering if I need to do all suspension mods that may affect ride height or front/rear angle first, before configuring the motor and transmission mounts?

I would do the suspension mods first and then see if the motor needs to sit higher or lower. What engine and trans are you putting in it?

get the suspension where you want it first. make sure you realize it will drop down some with the weight of the motor, trans, and any sheetmetal that was removed