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#18470 12/31/2002 11:34 PM | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 128 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 128 | I have a GMC 302 with a SM-420 4-speed ready to go into my 1945 GMC 1/2 ton. THe frame is stripped and sanblasted. I want to upgrade the front end with the mustang II with 11 brake kit. I have a few questions. Does anyone know if there are off the shelf engine mounts available for this setup? Second question, I am getting conflicting answers to this one. What is the drop in the front end once the kit is installed? Power steering/manual rack?
I want to keep the original size wheel/tire combo to give it that resto-custome look, slightly lowered with original appearance.
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#18471 12/31/2002 11:49 PM | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 587 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 587 | What a Hacker! Wouldn't the frame stay the same at bellhousing mounts for orig mount? Seems like the rad mount is the same place too? BUT, the front mount will need to be butchered some as the GMC is longer than the stock Chev was. You can get disc brakes with 6-bolt hubs for orig wheels, if you keep the orig axle. Then you could use Monoleaf springs to lower and ease ride. That was disc brake I meant on hubs.
G.L. Grumpy's Old Iron Ranch Huntington, IN 46750
MM R tractor, Speedex and Power King tractors
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#18472 01/01/2003 12:16 AM | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 128 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 128 | Hey Grumpy. Not sure what you mean by "What a Hacker". THis project is far from that. I did not purchase, or install one yet, but exploring options. If you could read, you would have understood that....Grumpy. | | |
#18473 01/01/2003 4:53 PM | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 1,586 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 1,586 | If the 302 is going into a GMC, its a bolt in.You can use a 48-53 Chevy or GMC bellhousing which will bolt up on your stock crossmember using 48-53 rear mounts.What are you going to do with your pedals?as they originaly mounted to the 45 clutch housing.I modifed the later housing, other guys have made brackets, perhaps you have converted to swing pedals? if you are using a big hunker for a damper pulley, it may foul the radiator. If you front axle is in good shape, the beam axle can be made to work well, but you won't be able to lower it more than a few inches.I like the classic hot rod look of a traditional beam front axle, but its your truck. | | |
#18474 01/01/2003 7:37 PM | Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 128 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Nov 2001 Posts: 128 | I have the correct bellhousing, so that end is set. I want to keep the original pedal assembly, so will modify or make up brackets to accomodate. I like the look of the front axel as well. The bearings are sloppy, but that can be taken care of with a rebuild. What is the best way to drop the front end with the original s/u? Also, what would you keep the original hydraulic shocks? It would be a lot easier to keep things stock. Lastly, if I stick with the original beam, do you know of a front disk conversion to improve braking and to convert to a 5-lug wheel pattern since I have a 5-lug chevy rear. | | |
#18475 01/01/2003 7:54 PM | | Anonymous Unregistered | | Anonymous Unregistered | Formula - you can take care of both your bearings and your front disk brakes at the same time. There are quite a few options for 5 lug disk brake solutions. Options for dropping the front end with a stock axle are limited to removing a couple of leafs or going with a mono leaf - you can only go so low before the axle starts beating on the bottom of the frame. . . still, only a little lower and you get the right look with the right tires and straight axle. | | |
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