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#18278 03/06/2002 2:03 AM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 4 Member | | Member Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 4 | I am by no means a mechanic, but do permit myself to tinker with my old truck. I have tackled the job of replacing the exhaust/intake manifold gasket and have a question. Is there a torque specification for the manifold bolts/nuts I should use when reinstalling the manifolds? It is a 1965 Chevy C-10 with the 230.
Also, having read a post in searching the site about heat risers, I noticed that my original heat riser spring is broken. The previous owner's mechanic has replaced the spring with a much different looking and not very effective spring. The old broken spring is still coiled around the part of the heat riser shaft sticking out of the manifold. Any ideas of where I could obtain a new, correct spring?
Thanks for any help. | | |
#18279 03/06/2002 9:00 AM | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | The torque for your manifold from Motor's Truck Repair Manual, 19th edition. center clamp bolts 25-30 ft-lbs. end clamp bolts 15-25 ft-lbs.
For your heat riser try your local parts source first then if that doesn't work try the vendor listings from the link on the Stovebolt main page. | | |
#18280 03/06/2002 7:03 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 4 Member | | Member Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 4 | Thanks for the help. I did not want to overdo it on the bolts, as that would cost me a lot more than time. I found a heat riser spring online from http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/ and it is on the way. Thanks again, Mike | | |
#18281 03/07/2002 1:20 AM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 21 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 21 | Hey Michael,
It sounds like you've had the manifolds (int. & ext.) apart... It's best to put them back together with a loose fit, then bolt them up to the head. If you torque them down together before bolting to the head you may crack one of the manifolds (ususally the ext.) because the faces that fit against the head are not even. Once you've got it on the head snug down all the bolts / nuts, then torque everything down.
Re-check in a day or so, after you've run your motor a while.
64K10
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#18282 03/09/2002 10:09 PM | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 4 Member | | Member Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 4 | Thanks for all the help. I got it back together and it is running.
Unfortunately, the noise I thought was an exhaust leak is still there. But, the new gasket was not a waste as there were a couple small spots where it was obviously leaking a bit.
Thanks again,
Mike | | |
#18283 03/11/2002 11:29 PM | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 21 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 21 | Mike,
You didn't say where the "sound" was coming from?
Is the "sound" coming from up near the head? You may have a blown head gasket and a simple compression test will show that. If you don't have a compression gauge, you may be able to feel around the head/manifold with your fingers (before it gets HOT) for that tell-tell "Pfitttt" sound. I've seen the head gaskets blown out on the left side and it sounds like it's a manifold gasket. If it is the head gasket, hopefully it is not by a water jacket. What is the condition of your oil?
How was the condition of the exhaust pipe where it connects to the manifold?
64K10
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