The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 250 Rebuild

I'm new to the world of truck ownership having recently purchased a 66 C10 fleetside from a Missouri farmer for next to nothing. I drove it back to Maryland smoking all the way, using more oil than gas. I decided to step out on faith and rebuild the engine. I took it all apart, and rebuilt it just fine...I think. Anyway, my problem is that I didn't take any pictures and the process has been taking a long time, since August, and now I'm stuck. Please help me with three questions. Where does the oil pressure sending line enter the block? Does the intake/exhaust side of the head have two studs upon which the gasket fits or are there six bolts which hold the in/ex on (I only have five bolts and the guys who did the valve work sent back one burnt valve in a bag with two studs) and lastly because I have a 1971 250 engine in the truck, and it has a breakerless ignition I can't follow the wiring diagram for a 66 and I don't know which wires go to the plug on the fire wall and which go to the bendix on the starter. I am new (obviously)to the world of clasic trucks, and I know I sound somewhat stupid but if anyone out there could help me I would be most appreciative.

I think the oil pressure sender screws in on passenger side of engine toward the rear of the block, down low.
I'm not sure about the maifold, but I don't think they used a bolt in the very front hole or the3 very rear hole. They were just dowels or pins.
Is your electronic ignition an HEI?

Hi Sandcaster,
The oil pressure sender is in the passenger side, below the lifter side cover, around the place where the cilinder number 5 is.
Normally there is a dowel pin on the first and one in the last of the exhaust manifold holes. The studs or screws must be positioned in a way that allows the clamps that holds both manifolds to head to be placed according to the places that they atacches the manifolds.
As for the wires, You'll have to get a multimeter and check what/where they are for or from. What ignition are You using, an HEI, or any other aftermarket kit??

Thanks for your help! By the way I think my ignition is the HEI. It looks just like the one on my 90 Buick.

Sandcaster,

Greetings! Grew up "next-door" to you, in Ellicott City, with Grandad's '54 Chevy 3/4 ton.
Also owned a '64 C-10, and presently drive a '72 C-10 w/ 250.

So, yes, the oil-pressure line goes to an 1/8" pipe tapping on the passenger side of the block, above the starter. Uses a 1/8" male NPT to 3/16" female flare adapter.

Wires; hmmmn.
If you have the shop manual, find which wire from the harness originally went to the "positive" terminal of the coil; that will most likely be the lead which connects to the HEI distributor (is the coil in the dist. cap?).

The starter wires are usually bundled together as a group of 2 to 4 wires, usually with ring terminals on the ends. I beleive the "starter" wire from the ignition switch is purple, and connects to the small terminal nearest the engine block on the solenoid.
If there is another small wire, that would run from the outer small solenoid terminal to the positive terminal of the coil. This bypasses the ignition resistor (when so equipped) to give a hotter spark when starting.

Go to Jim Carter or one of the other old truck suppliers and get yourself a re-print of the factory shop manual! It will be one of the best "$30.00" you'll ever spend on this vehicle!

Those "studs in the bag", are they threaded on one end only? if so, they are rocker arm studs, which probably "worked loose" and were replaced w/ oversize studs.(Goes along with the burnt valve)
This happened with my 250 when I had the head re-worked; however, my shop just pressed the original studs back in place, and told me about it. Now I have two valves that are beginning to get noisy, I guess because those studs are "working out" again :mad:

You're a brave guy driving a 35 year-old truck all the way back to MD from MO !
Did you have a "chase vehicle" or at least a tool box?
"Using more oil than gas" reminds me of my last long trip in the '54 Chevy- from Balto. to Wilkes-Barre,PA & back (400 miles) in one day, towing a 4,500 '64 Chrysler Newport on the return trip! 13 hours!
We stopped for gas once, but had to add a quart of oil every 50 miles!
But we got the job done! (that was when I was young (19) and... energetic!)

Welcome to the group! We seem to be a pretty friendly bunch, and occaisionally helpful too!

A bit of unsolicited advice, for your well-being: if your new truck is an unrestored "gem", please go over your brake system carefully! They do not age well, and give little warning before failing.
Your truck still has a "single resevoir" system, which means that a leak anywhere in the system will cause total loss of brakes.
Parts are still available from local auto stores (suggested brands: Raybestos, Wagner, NAPA. PEP Boys carries Raybestos- convince the kid behind the counter to look in a parts BOOK; it ain't in the computer!)
You should plan on replacing the master & wheel cylinders, the flex-hoses & steel lines, and the shoes and hardware.
It may seem a little expensive at first, but is much cheaper than hospitals and looking for new sheetmetal after a crash.
(Sorry, this is my standard "sermon" for "newbies"; we want to keep our members around for a long time )

Good luck; anytime you're puzzled, just ask; there's a lot of wisdom available on this site!

Frank54, Your advice is very useful. I can remember when I got my 1971 D100(Brazilian built, like the 1962 and up U.S. built version) with its single master cilinder brake system, while driving her home the brakes gave up at a traffic light. Nothing scary happened, but after a while I did changed the whole system to a dual circuit, which at least makes me feel a li'l better about the truck brakes. After that I came twice for single wheel brake failure, and always managed to bring the truck to a full safe stop.