The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Dial indicators and other measurement stuff

I am getting spring fever and at last it is warn enough to work outside without freezing my .... Anyway, I've been thinking about putting the clutch back together in my '53 Chev 3/4-ton. Can't remember which way the clutch plate goes. That's one problem if anyone can help me there. The other is reading the shop manual where it talks about using a dial indicator to check the runout and all that stuff associated with the clutch. How critical is that and can someone explain in better terms than the shop manual how you do it and what you are trying to accomplish doing it? Thanks and may the good weather hold for a few more months!

The side that faces the flywheel has the longer "snout" on it where the splines are.

If the clutch worked fine before you tore it apart (other than being worn out) you should be able to go back together. The flywheel should really be resurfaced when you do a clutch job, and checking the runout (wobble) with a dial indicator verifies that it was reinstalled correctly ie. no dirt between the flywheel and the crankshaft flange, ect.

Another thing the shop manual has you check is to make sure the bell housing hole is round (not worn oblong) and that it is centered correctly with the crankshaft. Again, if you weren't having troubles like popping out of high gear and the bell housing was not removed, chances are you are you are good to go back together again.

I kind of like checking stuff out like that (morbid curiousity???) but I don't think I would have the patience for it laying under the pickup in the driveway with a sharp breeze blowing underneath.

Thanks for the info. It helps a little, but I should have mentioned everything is out of the truck. I removed the bell housing, clutch and fly wheel when I pulled the old 235 out. It was a '55 235. I now am putting in a '61 235 that did not come with a bell housing, clutch and fly wheel. I would imagine this requires a few more checks, so any advise in that regard would be appreciated. I'm putting ion a new pilot bearing. The throwout bearing appears to be fine. I'm using the same tranny I had which is an SM420. I also see mention of using a clutch aligning tool. I'm not quite sure from reading the shop manual how you use the tool. Lots of questions about this procedure. Thanks again guys.

Replace the throwout bearing now, their cheaper than having to pull the tranny again. Shop I worked at we had to put in a new throwout every time we pulled a tranny, period. If the customer whined to much, the boss ate the cost of the bearing as good business practice. Clutch alignment tools are a few bucks, made out of plastic. Centers the disk on the pilot bearing, makes it easier to stick in the tranny. Rarely see a case on these old engines where you need to check the bell housing alignment, but if you're concerned, find a dial and check it. Most people just stick em together and if there's a problem take it back apart and work on it. But the older I get, the harder it is to pull the tranny and re-align everything. Not worth taking the chance anymore...

Rick,
I put a later model bellhousing, 1962 truck, behind a 54 car 235. Also changed out the flywheel and starter. I must have gotten lucky because it bolted up fine with no driveability problems. Definitely replace the pilot bushing. I didn't and got to do it over. A $2.00 part that cost me mucho grief. New throwout bearing also great advice.

I ended up modifying a clutch pilot tool so it would fit properly. You will know the clutch is out of alignement when you spend 30 minutes trying to get the transmission to bolt up and it won't.

A simple way of removing the pilot bushing is filling the bushing with play dough and then hammering a wooden dowel (sized to fit in the pilot bushing hole) which creates enough hydraulic pressure to force the bushing out of the crankshaft end. Wear some goggles as the play dough may spurt out a bit, but it works better than grease.

Hey thanks for the info guys. I won a bid on ebay for a Lisle clutch alignment tool ($15). Probably didn't need it, but what the heck. As far as a know, it should work for what I need. Thanks again for the advise.