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#16774 10/28/2003 6:30 PM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4
C
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C Offline
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 4
I just bought a 1960 235 from someone, and when I got it in, it did not have the carb linkage. HELP!

Its a Edelbrock intake with 2 single Rochester carbs.

If it helps, pics can be found at either: http://www.splakow.com/cooter/pics/10-28-2003/FrameSet.htm
-or-
http://splakow.com/cooter/dirtywork/pics/engine1.jpg
-and-
http://splakow.com/cooter/dirtywork/pics/engine2.jpg
-and-
http://splakow.com/cooter/dirtywork/pics/engine3.jpg

THANK YOU!!!!!


1953 Chevy 1/2 ton
http://www.splakow.com
#16775 10/29/2003 4:42 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,820
6
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Posts: 1,820
wink
Another Stovbolter told me about this web site:

www.piercemanifolds.com


"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!"
My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.
Operators are standing by to take your calls!
Now cruising in the Passing Lane
#16776 10/29/2003 2:48 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 428
B
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 428
I've got an Edelbrock on my '50 with a 216 so I'll try and give you a couple of pointers.

First off,what tranny are you planning to run? If you've got a 3-speed and are running the original column shift,the clearance between the shifter box on the steering column and manifold is VERY close. In fact I had to grind a little off the first and reverse lever arm.

Second,I was originally going to run Rochester's,but the rear carb would not clear the fender to firewall brace. I needed a narrow body carb, like a Carter W-1, Carter YF, or Zenith. I ended up going with the Carter YF's because they are what I had on hand at the time and have been happy with them.

As far as the linkage goes, mine came with the 3/8" main rod and the 3 lever arms but I made up the rest. The 3/8" rod was machined down to about 5/16" on one end since the linkage mounting holes on the manifold are different sizes,smaller in the front. I assume this is to keep the rod from sliding back and forth. On the other end,I went to the hardware store and bought a 3/8" collar with set screws to make sure the rod stays in place.The arms are just those aluminum clamp on style that I believe you can get from Speedway Automotive or Hot Rod Supply,etc. I purchased ball joint linkage ends from Mcmaster-Carr, www.mcmaster.com ,part #6058K26,and used 1/4" threaded rod cut to length with stop nuts to make up the rest of the linkage. The only other change I made was to use a heavier return spring on the accelerator linkage.

Hope this helps.


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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