The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Sound Deadening

Below are a few photos of the interior of a '66 Chevy C10 I am working on. This product goes by several trade names and is available at The Home Depot and Lowes in my area of the midwest. it runs $18.00-$20.00 per roll, out the door.

This application required less than three rolls of material and about four hours labor. Removal of the factory sound deadening and prep required more time than application of the new stuff. For the money and the results, this is a very good upgrade. This particular product is called Peel-N-Seal and is found in the roofing department of your local big box home center.

I hope the photos inspire you to tackle this project on your truck, as did some of the previous posts I read about this subject on stovebolt.

Tony

Sound mat on floorboard

Good old Peel and Seal, I love the stuff.

Same here, we used peel and seal also.

I tried to find the "peel and seal" at home depot and lowes and they had never heard of it. I was able to buy an insulating material that looks like the same thing. I will have to use spray adhesive etc. It came in rows of various lengths and widths and is foil backed on both sides. It is about 1/4 in. thick - used in contruction for insulation so figured it would work. I plan to put it on the floors and under the headliner. Maybe the "peel and seal" hasn't made it to north texas yet!!!!!!!!!! haha

I bought a 24x48 roll from JC Whitney. Worked great on the floor of my 55 2nd.

Just a suggestion...most aluminum fabricators sell a rolled adhesive product (4" wide) that is used to seal the seams over insulated aluminum roof panels. Sticky on one side and white vinyl on the other. I've used the wide stuff from H/D and found it was a bit tricky to handle and when it got heated up it gave off a petroleum odor. The 4" stuff is easy to apply inside the doors and other hard to reach places and stays put!! It sells for about $13.00 a roll and I used 3 rolls to do my cab. Hope this helps.

Several things come to mind as they did in the last discussion on this subject that I monitored.
In the Chicago area all I could find was a product at Menard’s that was call "ProTecTo Wrap", a 6" x 25' roll about a 1/16" thick, foil on one side, bare tar on the other. It looks like the same thing, as the “Peel ‘N’ Seal from what you guys are describing.
Smells like tar, what happens when you turn the heater loose on it? What happens on those steamy hot summer days that are being created from the global warming we have created? And lastly what do you do if you want to get the stuff up off the floor? I took the wrapper off the roll I have and set it up on edge on my steel shelving a few days ago, in a cold garage I might add. I had to darn near get a pry bar to unstick it from the shelf and I'm just talking about the edge of the paper touching the shelf. I shudder to thing if I had laid a piece with any area down flat.
I really hesitate to do anything that I can't reverse later.
Anybody got any other comments or thoughts on the long term use of this material?

It seems to me that a jute pad under the mat/carpet would deaden the sound just as good and not smell up the interior and be easily removed at a later date.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

The actual peel and seal isnt a tar product, its more rubbery. Had my truck out all last summer, no tar smell at all. I located mine at a local roofing supply.

Its a bugger to get back up. I've had to drill a couple holes through the stuff. It will do a real number on your drill bits. I have to clean them up with a wire wheel after drilling.

I don't know for sure, and I imagine that you would still have one big mess, but either acetone or lacquer thinner (xylenes) should work on the adhesive once you've scraped up the worst of the peel and seal. It will also remove your paint, though you would probably want to repaint at that point no matter what you use.

Prior to installing the Protecto Wrap/Peel-N-Seal or whatever the brand is you are using, on the floor of my '66 Chevy C10, I spent numerous hours removing the factory sound deadening from the floor board and firewall. In some areas, it was not stuck to the metal, in others it was, very well, I might add. In some areas, the original was very hard and brittle and in others it was very soft and pliable. Some areas were easily removed and other areas very difficult to remove. I used paint thinner, a painters scraper and a lot of elbow grease. I discovered a mixed bag of results with the existing sound deadening.

As far as trying to remove the new sound deadening, I want something that is going to go on and stay in place. When making holes in it, I cut out the material, prior to drilling throught the metal. I suggest this route anytime you are drilling through the floor, to avoid gumming up the drill bit. The material is designed to stick to what it is applied to, as well as itself. There was no odor, even when I heated it with a heat gun to cover the radical contours.

Working with a narrow roll, is easier to apply than the wider rolls, whereas handling and laying is more managable. Gluing anything to the flooring substrate, that can absorb moisture, is not a good idea, since it can not be removed, if it gets wet. I removed the carpet and jute insulation, that was glued to the floor with contact adhesive by the previous owner. It was obvious that it had been wet before. Laying the carpet loose or with double-stick carpet tape is a better solution, whereas it can be removed, if it gets wet.

I have used Dynamat and Fatmat in the past and the pieces are very large and difficult to work with. I prefer the narrow rolls because they are easier to lay and manipulate. I also suggest covering the seams with foil-face duct tape, to ensure a seamless application. I hope your project turns out as satisfactory as mine.

Tony

I know some of you are going to cringe....but I have been using Herculiner over the spotlessly prepped (often replaced or repaired) FLOOR PANELS on most of my project vehicles. Granted it will cause a purist to gag but folks, the stuff works. It's a great crack sealer, is bulletproof and is one heck of a sound deadener.
In addition, it will hide a miriad of sins.

No need to glue down your jute or other pad on top of it....it's rough, gritty surface will hold your top layers in place.

Try it...you may like it! I did!!!

Dave

A quote from their site;

Q: How can I remove HERCULINER once it's applied?
A: You can use Xylene while product is still wet, but if it dries, it's permanent.

It's Permanent! Once again, that's the part that turns me off.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Hey Denny....why would you want to remove it? Unless you didn't bother to heed their warning to wear rubber gloves, goggles, long sleeved disposable shirt, apron, knee-high rubber boots, a hat with ear flaps and of course, an oxygen rebreathing apparatus!!!

What I like about it, is that it really takes the "twang" out of sheet metal panels and once it's on you can just forget it!!!! I guess it's just another one of those "to each his own" products!!!!

I just have this thing about the next guy that will restore it in another 20 years from now. Some of these products are going to require that the floor or bed be cut out to fix it next time.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Gosh Denny, you sure are a considerate guy! We need more like you!!!

Dave

Denny:

The theory of the next guy replacing it in 20 years is a thoughtful one, however I wish they would have thought about the guy replacing it after 40 years, when I took on the task of removing the remains of the factory sound deadener from the floor boards and firewall of the '66 that started this topic. I spent countless hours scraping, stripping and cleaning up the remains of the factory applied sound mat.

I am hopeful that there will not be a need to replace it in 20 years, since the truck will be taken care of better in its later years than it was in its early years. I want the sound mat to stay in place throughout the trucks lifespan, just as I want the prep, primer and paint to last forever. The sound mat can be scraped and removed with a paint scraper and paint thinner, just as the original sound mat was removed.

I posted the topic to share my experience and the results, certainly not to create a rift. Being a purist, I would have gladly replaced the original sound mat with original materials, however there is no such animal, therefore I opted for a comparable product that is readily available. Perhaps in twenty years, the truck may have crumbled around the newly restored floor boards, however I will not get my feet wet.

Have a great day and lets go trucking.

Tony

I didn't have any trouble removing the original material under the floor mat in my 58, all 2 sq. ft. of it.

Hey Tony, we’re not criticizing ya here, just swapin' ideas. The tar like sound deadeners sound like they could be removed at a later date, although it would be a pain in the arss. Like you said, the original material was a bear to get up. We don’t have that problem with the AD’s, only jute as far as I know. I’m trying to stay original with my restoration. However, I might bend a little when it comes to the doors, here I might just use a little of the sound deadener, then again, 3m rubberized under coating might work just as good and give me some rust protection to boot. Also there was a lot of undercoating used back in ’50, I’m running into it everywhere I scrape the mud/grease away and the metal is as good as the day it came out of the factory underneath.
I saw a stripper the other day that said it would remove paint, bed liner, etc., but darned if I can find it now, I got to get organized one of these days. So it might be possible to remove the Herculiner with a stripper.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny:

Thanks for the reply. I have seen so many hokie things done to the hundreds of '64-'66 Chevy trucks that I have looked at or owned over the past several years. I know everyone has a method to their madness. I just wanted to share my thoughts on an upgrade, that I feel is better than what was offered from the factory. There are many options available and this sound mat is a better option than some of the high-end products on the market, that unfortunately I have invested in.

Applying this product may be the most radical departure from stock that I have done on my trucks. I am a purist at heart and try not to do things on my trucks, that can not be undone to reset the truck to stock or original. That being said, I will try things that prolong the longevity of the truck. I am hopeful that this is one of them.

Thanks for the feedback and lets go truckin.

Tony

4 5 6, I went to home depot today to get some peel and seal and they had know idea of what I was talking about. Is it actually called peel and seal or is there a name brand?

51dan79:

I believe The Home Depot calls their product Protecto-Wrap. You will find it in the roofing area. It is a roll approximately 6" wide by 30' long. There is some that is for wrapping around windows and doors and some that is specific to roofing. Get the roofing Protecto-Wrap, because it is thicker and stickier. It is $16.77 per roll, plus tax. Your local HD should have it. If not, check with Lowes. They sell Peel-n-Seal, I believe.

Good luck with your project.

Tony

home depot
check the window area. it comes in two sizes I spotted
6''x75' and 9''x30' both were about $20.

be aware that these products may give off air born residue at high heat temperatures during the HOT summer months and possibly cloud (cause a film coating) inside windows