The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors 1940 seat base out??

I am getting ready to work on the cab of my 1940 rod truck project. The floor is pretty rusty and needs repair but the seat frame base is still in place. If I plan to put in late model buckets do I still need to keep this platform. It looks to me like I need to remove it and just go back with a flat floor pan of some kind. Any ideas on this? Do I consider it a part of the old seat? Does it have a value to anyone if it comes out in one piece it looks like it is welded in at a few places? Comments please.
Bob

I believe the 40 is the same as my 42.The part you are talking about also serves as a gas tank holder (for lack of a better term).Do you plan on relocating the gas tank? Just a thought.

If it is the same as my ’41 it also stiffens up the floor pan considerably

The floor of your 40 is the same as a 46. My floor was solid. I took mine out and the floor was fine (a lot of spot welds). There are two large holes for the gas tank. You can make disks and weld them in or go to a home center and look at door handles for closet doors insert type for bypass doors. The carpet will go right in from the back of the cab up to the firewall. The 1 inch or so drop in the floor for the gas tank makes it right for the bucket seat with the base to bolt in.

Thanks lugnut,
I started to remove it today As the tank has already gone. The thing is welded in so I was trying one weld to see how strong it was. While prying up with a small bar it sliped and the top edge of the seat frame split my thumb. Now that the bleeding stopped I am on the computer and out of the shop a while. My floor has lots of holes rusted through but solid in other places. Can I just weld in a flat sheet of metal over the rusty floor or will all rust parts need cut out and replaced? I think i could patch but might not have the skils to replace.
Bob

There are a number of ways to take out spot welds one is to drill them out, then weld them up. The big trick here is to put a piece of copper behind the hole this acts as a heat sink and as a form so you don’t make a bigger hole. This is a good place to practice as it won’t show unless someone crawls under to inspect and if they do you will know the rest passed their test. Hope your thumb is ok. Keep us posted on the progress.

Well got it out today used the air hammer with chisel really worked nice. First time I ever had much success with air hammer. Think I will go back with a heavy gauge sheet metal and have one flat floor to start back with. This is not a restoration so just want it strong. Thanks till next time. Bob