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#1613807 10/22/2026 10:00 PM
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Question, can a 302 block accept a 4.0 sleeve with a 1/8” wall thickness, this will require the cylinder to bored out to 4.253” any concern with exposing the coolant passage?

Dave1234 #1614053 10/26/2026 8:15 PM
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I guess this the wrong forum for these technical questions ,maybe I should post on the inliners forum.

Last edited by Dave1234; 10/26/2026 8:16 PM.
Dave1234 #1614057 10/26/2026 8:31 PM
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Dave, boring that much sounds scary, to ignorant me.
Maybe our experts are still mulling this over.😳
What is the reason you are sleeving this 302?


~Charley
1954 Chevy 3100 with 235
“Bud”
Follow along in the DITY
1963 Chevy half ton stepside short box 230
1954 GMC 3 ton 302
And several more Chevy camper and work trucks 1979 1987 1996
Dave1234 #1614063 10/26/2026 9:36 PM
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The only time I use a 1/8" wall sleeve is if there's a hole in the cylinder wall. Yes, a 302 will probably handle a sleeve that thick, but a 3/32" wall sleeve will accomplish the same fix with less material being removed from the block. That only requires boring the block to 4 3/16". I usually bore for about a .001" press fit when installing sleeves and cold soak the sleeve in dry ice and alcohol before installing it. I've been doing it that way for a little over 40 years.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Dave1234 #1614268 10/29/2026 10:12 PM
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I bored the cylinders intending to use sleeves with a 3/32 wall thickness, however one cylinder did not clean up.
Think I have a plan, I have ordered a 1/8 wall sleeve, and will turn the od down on the lathe.
Thanks for the replies.

Dave1234 #1614290 10/30/2026 1:25 AM
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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It shouldn't matter if the cylinder didn't clean up when bored for the sleeves (I think that's what you're saying.) Unless there's a gaping hole in the bore, the sleeves will take care of minor imperfections.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Dave1234 #1614344 10/30/2026 7:15 PM
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Interesting, as I am new to installing sleeves..
I scoured the forums as well as YouTube, looking for advice.
Regarding the interference fit, there are a wide range of methods. Some recommend boring the cylinder .001” under size, the manufacturer of the sleeve “Melling” recommends up to .005” on a large sleeve.
Some just pound then in.
Some use a press, some warm the block and freeze the sleeves. I developed my own method, so far so good.

Dave1234 #1614430 10/31/2026 6:27 PM
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Years ago salvage liners were quite popular. We ran quite a few of them. We always used 3/32 sleeves. We used them for everything from cracked cylinders to big gouges in the cylinder. We just made sure we had a good press fit. Especially at the top and bottom. The government sleeved a lot of 302 engines back to standard. I have one of them torn down at the moment. It is nice to have them because standard pistons and rings are much more available. Before I get back to a GMC I need to get an old Y-Block out of the way. It is border line junk .006 to .008 over. I am debating as to use old Continental file to fit rings and knurl the pistons or junk it.

Dave1234 #1614432 10/31/2026 6:37 PM
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Back when I was building "mini-stock" race car engines based on the Ford 2300 CC 4 cylinder overhead cam engine, the sneaky trick was to bore the original cylinder walls completely away and install 1/8" wall 4" diameter sleeves. We ran a very light weight Chevy 350 piston and H beam connecting rods. As long as we could get a good press fit at the top and bottom 1/2" of the block, the engines ran just fine. We put a 1/2" thick layer of high temperature epoxy at the bottom of the water jacket to help seal coolant out of the crankcase. Of course, when one hand-grenaded at 9K+ RPM, there was nothing left to rebuild!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Dave1234 #1614481 11/01/2026 12:02 AM
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Good to know that it’s Not The End Of The World if you expose the coolant passage. Some of us err on the side of caution.
As I have said before there is alot of information out there about sleeving cylinders, you have to make a judgement call, particularly when you are learning.

Dave

Dave1234 #1614482 11/01/2026 12:47 AM
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Just remember to use a good coolant if you expose the liners to coolant. They are more prone to rust than the cast iron block.

Dave1234 #1614487 11/01/2026 1:20 AM
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It can be very educational to take a sawzall to a junk engine block and see just how thick the cylinder walls actually are in different areas.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Dave1234 #1614494 11/01/2026 2:19 AM
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Thats why it concerned me when I discovered the engine in my wrecker was .060 over. I went ahead and cut the ridge, honed it, knurled the pistons a little and called it good. It has been running like that for 15 years. The irony is about a year after I built it, I found a 371 Olds which is the block GMC used with standard cylinders and almost no ridge. I bought it for a spare, but I have never used it.
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