Evening all, I’ve been doing research on potential tires for my ‘52 GMC since I got a set of original wheels for it a couple months ago. I discovered earlier this week that you can still buy bias ply tires in the proper size and style for my truck. I’ve heard many stories about how bad bias ply tires were, but considering how infrequently my truck will be driven and the low speeds for those drives, can they really be that bad? Unless someone knows someplace I don’t, even the cheapest (and wrong looking) radials are about $100 a pop. These are going for $85 a corner before shipping.
'53 GMC 3100 "I think your obsession with auto shop stems from your unresolved feelings about your father" -Bobby Hill
I bought a set of those tires when they were offered with free shipping (turns out it was only to the lower 48 states and they wanted $3000 to ship them to Alaska), but I got them shipped for free to a freight forwarder and up to me for $180.
I've put a few miles on them and wouldn't call them terrible at all. For an infrequently used truck.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I know how my truck drove years ago with bias ply tires and my new radials have made a world of difference in ride and handling. My truck use to dance from side to side when hitting those warn in grooves in the road. But, like you said, if you will have limited driving, maybe bias ply will work for you and save you some cash.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
I bought them from Simple Tire But they were under $100 each back then, with free shipping as I mentioned above.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I don't think you could go wrong at that price, just remember your going to need tubes and boots as well.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
I didn't use boots when I had mine mounted, although I did go with tubes. Wasn't sure if they would qualify as tubeless with older possibly rusty rims. Boots are typically used on big truck split rims.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
While I had my bias plies on, I couldn't bring a cup of coffee for my drive to work. When I got my Michelin radials, I could. The bias tires were herky jearky, making coffee impossible.
34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
to ship them to Alaska), but I got them shipped for free to a freight forwarder and up to me for $180.
