Well Bolters I’ve finally gotten our 235 engine totally disassembled, now down to the more dirty work of cleaning the detail parts (see attachment) and taking it Lassiter to the machine shop here in College Station and praying that it will not be toooo expensive (wishful thinking.) The head, valves, inspiring, push rods, tappets, may need replacing. Pushrods definitely. Initially my gut feeling is that the Camshaft will have to be replaced too. The cylinder bores look like honing would take care of inner walls hashing. Initially the pistons look reusable (wrist pins slide and no radial play), the piston rings not broken but will be replaced. Piston rods look ok. Crankshaft needs resurfacing. All piston rod, camshaft, and crankshaft bearing to be replaced. All block freeze plugs to be replaced. My only question herein is: look at picture where I point to the crankshaft support bearing, is that the correct configuration for the bearing in at that crankshaft support?
Yes, that third main bearing has thrust flanges that control the fore/aft position of the crankshaft. The machine shop that does your crankshaft regrinding will have specifications to determine if the end play is within limits. The width of the thrust flanges on a new bearing on a 235 or a 261 is supposed to be 1.244". Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Thanks for the reminder. Yes all are stamped with numbers. Interestingly the #6 was stamped on the opposite site relative to other 5. See, this engine is not original to us and it’s obvious that it had been previously repaired. Pistons are stamped to .030 so it looks like we have another 0.030” before reaching the max. Pistons were removed without having to use an edge reamer.
