The Stovebolt Site Forums The Back Office The Greasy Spoon New to all of this Need ideas about inline 6

I have a 48 216 with a cracked block. I tried to fix with JB Weld as some had posted that it worked for them.
It was close but no cigar.
So now this is the make it do something winter!
I have promised the wife that I would have it going by spring.
I'm looking for options... The first option was get a new block. I need to be honest this isn't a truck it is a very nice Chevy 1940 two door sedan.
It is very original, except for the motor being a 48. So I apologize for being a car guy, but this is about the stovebolt I need to get going.
So back to the options. I have a good numbers correct 40 block sitting in the shop. Then I find out about Babbitt bearings. So now I doubt that my son-in-law and I can do the rebuild.
Should I just find someone to through bore that new block and put in modern bearings? With that option, can I use the top end from the 48 on the 40 block? That would save a lot of time and money with parts.
Option two, find a different motor.
I currently have the wrong motor anyway, so should I just drop a good 235 in there and call it done? They should be easy to find but should be rebuilt before dropping it in.
The 235 should be modern bearings and better to work on I suppose. I'm not a real motor guy. I would be counting on my diesel mechanic son-in-law for most of the knowledge in the rebuild.
I have seen rebuilt 235's on eBay and different places, but it can get pricey.
Any and all lines of thought are welcome

Hy HareCanvas, welcome, as you have stated there are many options to getting a running engine into your vehicle. Firstly are you sure the crack repair on your current engine is a lost cause, could you post some pictures of the engine and its crack?

I would check your local area for a 235/261

If you have a correct 40 complete engine, I would at least inspect that and see what condition it's in. The babbit bearings on the rods were installed with shims, so if the crank throws aren't scarred, you can adjust the clearance by removing shims. The main bearings (insert type) also use shims for setting clearance, so could be adjusted as well. That's contingent on the bores and rings being in good shape also. The head from the 1948 motor may not work on the 40 block. 39-40 heads are a different casting number than 41-53 heads. But the 40 head could be reconditioned.
Another option is to try again on the crack repair. You may not have gotten the crack prepped and cleaned properly for your repair to work. Marine-Tex is the recommended epoxy for block crack repairs.

Welcome! I think a Stovebolt is a Stovebolt. Lots of guys here can help with input and solutions. Hope you get it running by Spring!

John, I agree ... but ... We are glad to help and we have plenty of folks around here who can and will. Here's the "But..." part. We are a truck site. granted, the car guys generally aren't as helpful which is why the the originalist car guys like the OP generally find their way here (I'm not going to publicly bash the VCCA but as most around here know, I'm not their biggest fan ... They are NOT a truck organization.)

Yes, it has been a challenge over the years to maintain our focus and our brand. We try to help the car guys in obvious areas of overlap like this which is why we don't run them off. We *will* help. Just not in our main forums

Back to the OP's actual question -- My opinion, FWIW, is that two major factors here drive the obvious answer. Those factors are that by your own admission, a babbit engine is outside your comfort zone and that the engine isn't original to the car anyway. The obvious answer (to me, anyway) is to find a decent 235 to rebuild and go with that -- easier to do, easier to get parts for, easier to live with. 99 percent of the people who look under your hood won't know the difference between a 216, a 235 or a Detroit diesel 6-71 anyway -- they're probably expecting to see a crate LS motor of some sort.

Why mess with a cracked block? You'll never fully trust it. Welcome to the antique vehicle hobby. Now load up the dollar gun, aim it at a 235 and hold the trigger down. You'll be happier in the long run.

As Barney Fife says, "The lessons folks most need to learn in life, ain't fun to learn." Thus, it is generally preferable to learn from others' mistakes.

John M in 'Bama

Welcome to the ‘bolt. As the boss said, there are many folks here that will give you good information. Some will give you their opinion.

Keep the questions generic and do your homework with the answers (trust but verify).
As it has been said, an engine is an engine. An electrical circuit is an electrical circuit.
Have fun fixing the vehicle.
Once a thread is obviously about a car, it will most likely get sent to the greasy spoon

Besides this site, which does have excellent resources of information, try the VCCA chat site (Vintage Chevrolet Club of America) This type of question comes up very often and there is quite a few individuals there that can offer advice.VCCA Member site

Make a few more posts- - - - -3 or 4, I believe to get past "moderated" status, and then send me a private message. There are several ways to modernize the 216 engine to use later model, more easily sourced components, including a pressure-oiled crankshaft from a 235 engine and insert-bearing connecting rods, while retaining the outside appearance of the original engine. Along the way, you can gain about 35 cubic inches, with a corresponding increase in compression. This can be done by using original equipment parts from other engines, not fancy custom made stuff that will make your checkbook need CPR. There were some slight, but important changes in machining dimensions in the 216 lower end, beginning in 1948 through 53 when the last of the 216s were made. There was also a change in the piston dome shape and the cylinder head combustion chamber in the early 1940s. Early 216s had dome shaped pistons, and a different combustion chamber shape. Good luck with your project!
Jerry