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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 234
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 234
Hey...

Just had my SM318 3-speed transmission rebuilt (synchros bad, possibly from using GL5). I would like to put in the correct gear oil.

The manual states, "Either SAE 90 Multi-Purpose gear lubricant or SAE Straight Mineral Oil may be used". I heard I should stay away from the synthetic and GL-5 gear oils. I also heard I should use GL-4 gear oil. I also read I could use the "Ford Tractor Transmission Fluid Mineral Gear Oil" which is SAE 90 API GL-1.

I was looking to go with the Ford Tractor Transmission Fluid Mineral Gear Oil, which states it is GL-1. I do not know what is currently in the rebuilt trans now and just don't trust it. Good thing the trans has a bottom drain plug for easy draining.

Should I stay away from the synthetics? Is GL-4 better than GL-1?


1960 Chevy Apache (C10)
1965 Chevy C30 Dump Truck
1966 Chevy C30 Tow Truck
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,180
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,180
Any gear oil up to GL-4 can be used. Some GL-4 oils state right on the label that they're safe for manual transmissions. GL-5 oils have additives that mess with the brass components in synchros.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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'Bolter
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Agree with Phil's suggestion.


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Posts: 11,180
If you don't want to buy a gallon (or two gallons), the SM318 takes a total of 1 quart, 1/2 pint in the u-joint ball area and the rest in the regular fill plug. I have found GL-4 in quarts Sta-Lube Brand and Triax Brand (pics.) I think I got both from Amazon.
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Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 234
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by klhansen
I have found GL-4 in quarts Sta-Lube Brand and Triax Brand (pics.) I think I got both from Amazon.

Thanks Kevin... Nice to know the fluid capacity! So I assume Full synthetic is OK to use in a transmission from 1960 that dates back to the 50's? I might still go with the gear oil from Tracker Supply since I have 2 other old trucks that need transmission service and the 2 gallons might come in handy...

Thanks Phil for the links!!


1960 Chevy Apache (C10)
1965 Chevy C30 Dump Truck
1966 Chevy C30 Tow Truck
Joined: Feb 2019
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You’re Welcome! Full Synthetic may be too slippery for the syncro's to operate correctly. I would stick with what GM recommended.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,462
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Phak1
You’re Welcome! Full Synthetic may be too slippery for the syncro's to operate correctly. I would stick with what GM recommended.

X2


BC
1960 Chevy C10 driver 261 T5 4.10 dana 44 power loc
1949 GMC 250 project in waiting
1960 C60 pasture art
Retired GM dealer tech. 1980 - 2022

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