Evening All, Unfortunately Hurricane Isaias knocked an oak tree over onto my '53 and damaged the cab roof. The door jambs and windshield frame still line up but the size and location of the dents has me less than confident that I would be able to push out all the dents to a reasonable degree. By pure luck, however, there is a guy semi-local to me selling a '47 GMC cab with a completely rotted out floor but a pristine roof. Has anyone ever turned their cab into a temporary convertible and have any suggestions on where I could remove the roof and preserve the fitment?
'53 GMC 3100 "I think your obsession with auto shop stems from your unresolved feelings about your father" -Bobby Hill
I was thinking of changing my roof manny years ago as I found a cab that had the corner windows but decided not to mess with what I had .The cab has joints as you are most likely aware of on the side of the windshield and they used lead to body fill .at the back there are bolts but also welds .It may be worth it but I have seen some good work at taking out dents also .My roof had a few dents just above the passenger side of the window and I had good results in using a slapper to coax it mostly out .
Post a picture of your damaged roof. That will give us an idea what you're up against as far as pushing the dents out. If the perimeter is still in good shape, the only issues would be where there is a double wall. I had some pretty serious oil canning on my roof and managed to get them out by propping a 2x4 underneath against the floor and the roof with plywood to spread out the point contact. See the attached pic. I was also able to pull out a fairly deep dent out above the rear window in the double wall area using weld studs and a little filler. See second picture.
As far as replacing the entire roof, you either cut the windshield pillars and the B-pillar and try to get the windshield opening correct as well as the door openings, or try and butt weld the sheet metal without cutting the pillars. Both approaches have their advantages and drawbacks. I have not attempted to replace a roof.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I agree with both Kevin’s. Post a few pictures of your damaged roof. It may be easier to straighten than replace.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
A Porta-power is what you need to fix that roof. I'd try that first. A friend of mine had a big limb fall on his cab. He is a short fella but still couldn't sit in the seat without bumping his head. He was ready to push the truck into the swamp until his buddy brought out the Porta-power and pushed the vast majority of the dent back out, then with a hammer and dolly got the top back to where it belongs.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
If you do use a Porta-power (which I'd like to have on hand), be very careful not to wind up with lumps on the roof. Use plywood to spread the load on the end on the tool, like I did with the 2x4.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
