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#1613455 10/17/2026 12:20 AM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 27
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
S Offline
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 27
Evening All,
Unfortunately Hurricane Isaias knocked an oak tree over onto my '53 and damaged the cab roof. The door jambs and windshield frame still line up but the size and location of the dents has me less than confident that I would be able to push out all the dents to a reasonable degree. By pure luck, however, there is a guy semi-local to me selling a '47 GMC cab with a completely rotted out floor but a pristine roof. Has anyone ever turned their cab into a temporary convertible and have any suggestions on where I could remove the roof and preserve the fitment?


'53 GMC 3100
"I think your obsession with auto shop stems from your unresolved feelings about your father"
-Bobby Hill
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,332
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,332
I was thinking of changing my roof manny years ago as I found a cab that had the corner windows but decided not to mess with what I had .The cab has joints as you are most likely aware of on the side of the windshield and they used lead to body fill .at the back there are bolts but also welds .It may be worth it but I have seen some good work at taking out dents also .My roof had a few dents just above the passenger side of the window and I had good results in using a slapper to coax it mostly out .


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,150
Post a picture of your damaged roof. That will give us an idea what you're up against as far as pushing the dents out. If the perimeter is still in good shape, the only issues would be where there is a double wall. I had some pretty serious oil canning on my roof and managed to get them out by propping a 2x4 underneath against the floor and the roof with plywood to spread out the point contact. See the attached pic. I was also able to pull out a fairly deep dent out above the rear window in the double wall area using weld studs and a little filler. See second picture.

As far as replacing the entire roof, you either cut the windshield pillars and the B-pillar and try to get the windshield opening correct as well as the door openings, or try and butt weld the sheet metal without cutting the pillars. Both approaches have their advantages and drawbacks. I have not attempted to replace a roof.
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IMG_5213.JPG (181.86 KB, 19 downloads)
IMG_3664.JPG (90.33 KB, 16 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
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AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
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I agree with both Kevin’s. Post a few pictures of your damaged roof. It may be easier to straighten than replace.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
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