The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors Removing my pass. Latch 50' 3100

Ok,
I'm stuck . How does the passenger latch come out / free of the door on my 1950 3100?
Seems like everything is apart?

Thank you.
Todd

With the window all the way up, the latch should fall down to the bottom of the door and then out the lower opening. No?

Just because I can't see from this one picture, did you remove the exterior key lock mechanism?

If every other pieces of hardware securing the latch to the door is removed, from what can be seen in this picture, that's the only thing I can think of to possibly keep it from coming out.

Dan probably has the solution. The key lock has to come out. It's held in place by a sheet metal keeper that's under the weatherstrip. Here's the page from the service manual.

I totally forgot about the door lock and its metal keeper.

The Lock is OUT . The handle removed. All screws are out.
It seems like the metal window channel? Is holding it in place?
Todd
I'll try and get a picture.

Todd - Snap shot from the 1948-51 Chevy Shop Manual. I think you skipped step # 3.

Dan, correct!!!
I did not remove it...
I guess I'll do that tomorrow.
Thank you.

Backstory: the door started to "Click" open while driving. The door was still "Closed" but half open is the way I can describe it..
Latch is loose.. it's either broke or worn out.. I know I replaced a spiral spring or two but I don't remember if it was the Driver's door or Passenger side latch.

Sounds like the lock is worn and releasing to the safety catch. When you get it out, check the areas marked by the arrows on the attached. The lever shown with the red arrow should have a sharp corner on it where it contacts the latch cam, and the latch cam (yellow arrow) should have noticeable serrations along it. That's what keeps the latch cam from rotating and releasing. I think that if you lock the door with the inside handle that also prevents the latch cam from releasing.

I forgot about having to remove the window run channel as well.

Kevin,
Thank you.
I'll probably remove t tomorrow.
I will update.
Todd
PS So far this part is loose (it wiggles) the driver side does not move. See picture.

That cage (for lack of a better term) that your arrow was pointing at was also loose on one of my latches. It holds the outer bearing for the latch cam (the part that grabs the striker) and is staked in place. I hit it with a tack weld when I rehabbed my latches. (Pic 1) I also built up the part of that piece that rides up on the striker. (Pic 2) I would definitely do that once you get the latch out. You'll be able to see how it's secured to the latch body. I built up the safety catch as well. Most of the work was on the driver's side latch as it got way more use, of course. I think there's a post with more pics of latch repair in my Project Journal.

Time for Altman latches? Best thing I ever did for my truck.

I'll bet that door has worn out hinge pins and is sagging quite a bit, causing that door latch to hammer the striker when the door is slammed shut. You can clean that hammered piece and weld some metal back in and weld the piece back on.
I'd rebuild the hinge first so that you don't bang into it anymore.
Once you have the hinges rebuilt, put the door back on and adjust it until the belt lines of the cab and the door match up
Do this before you replace the door latch and striker.