While replacing a brake line, I cross threaded the connection into the junction block that sits to the right of the transmission cross member. I’ve looked and can’t find an exact replacement online. Does anyone know where one can be found? I did find the junction that goes on the rear axle available for purchase. Aren’t the threads the same as the one up front? I just wouldn’t be able to bolt it to the frame. Would that be an issue? The line from the master cylinder is larger than the front and rear brake lines for the front block. Seems to be the same with the hose and rear hard lines. I appreciate any advice.
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
A small piece of angle iron and a couple of machine screws would adapt the fitting you found into a frame-mounted item. Just be careful not to drill into the fluid passageways with the holes for the screws. Vibration will cause hard lines to crack at the flare fittings if the junction block isn't mounted rigid. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Bill - What are the port inlet and outlet sizes on your T-fitting? If they are both 1/4", this Classic Parts Brake Line T-block fitting may be just what you need.
Their description doesn't include 3100 1/2 tons, but the picture looks to match your 2nd one above.
The same item from Jim Carter MEE247 has a more detailed description of "1947-50 All, 1951-57 3/4, 1, 1 1/2 and 2 ton. Frame rail divider block with retaining nut. This brake line T attaches to right frame rail. Receives master cylinder line and divides it to front and rear wheel cylinders. Includes retaining nut. Is 1/4" inlet and 1/4" outlet. Sold each master cyl line = 7/16"other 2 lines are both 3/8" "
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
The one from Jim Carter may be correct. But Dan's link to the classic parts one is likely not (goes by the right front wheel) I have a couple spare division blocks, but would have to check to see if I have the one you need.
I'm assuming this (pic) is the one you need. Pokes thru the frame with a nut on the back side.
Last edited by klhansen; 09/02/20262:52 AM. Reason: added picture
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Jerry- Thats what I was thinking. I bet the right sized hole drilled in it with one of those retaining clips like the hoses use would work fine. Khansen- That is the exact one. The line from the master is bigger than the other two. 1/4 and 3/16 maybe. A 7/16 wrench for the line from the master, and 3-8 wrench for the front and rear lines. Please let me know if you have one to spare. Dan, I think that is the one from Jim Carter is correct! Thank you sir. I’ll try and verify, but pretty sure.
Bill, I did go out and check, but that fitting is gone from my stash of stuff. I believe now that it got sent to another Bolter. Sorry.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I ordered the one from Jim Carter klhansen. Thank you for checking. As soon as it arrives I’ll try again. This time I’ll get everything started thread wise before the block is bolted to the frame. That has to be the biggest lesson learned from this. That’s a tight fit boxed into the corner of the frame rail like that. It’s giving me more time to practice my double flare as well. I found that lubricating before the flaring process with a little brake fluid made a huge difference in the quality of flare. I also file and deburr. I bought a kit from Harbor Freight and it works fine.
Don't forget to slip the inverted flare nut onto the tubing BEFORE making the flare! It's embarrassing to have to cut off a really good double flare because there's no nut behind it! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Don't forget to slip the inverted flare nut onto the tubing BEFORE making the flare! It's embarrassing to have to cut off a really good double flare because there's no nut behind it! Jerry
I can't tell you how many times I've done the electrical wiring equivalent of that by making a splice without sliding the heat shrink tubing onto one of the wires first.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
100% of us have made the missing nut/shrink tubing mistake at least once. LOL!
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I did say "at least once". I'm in the same boat as you are.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I'm in the same boat as you are. 