I just noticed that the serrated rectangular nuts for holding the striker in place are missing on one side of the cab. They may been lost when It was dipped. Are these still available, I have not found them in the retail market. What have you guys used for these in place of the original?
I don’t know if these are available in the aftermarket, but they wouldn’t be hard to make. Or a want ad would possibly prompt a fellow bolter to provide one.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
A little late on a response, but I was missing one side while pre-assembly a few years ago. I found a seller on eBay but was out of stock. I ended up finding used locally. eBay seller might have them again, don’t know.
Chip
'Rusto-Mod' '51 Chevy 3600 5 window | C4 Corvette front/rear suspension & drivetrain | everything else looks old and stock '92 GMC Sonoma GT #15 of 806 '91 GMC Sonoma GT Extended cab 1 of 1 Trucks, Trucks.....and more Trucks
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
Here's a picture of a couple of later 1960-63 NOS GMC latch strike plate kits (courtesy of Brad Allen) that includes the serrated anchor plates (circled in red in snapshot below) among the parts that make up the complete kit.
Last edited by Gdads51; 08/30/20262:41 AM. Reason: and year range
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Just a thought, but you could probably make replacement threaded serrated nut plates from some flat stock easier than findings originals. The above 1960-63 kits, which you can still find on ebay, are slightly different from the AD series serrated nut plates.
The 1960-63 serrated plates do not have threaded holes, but work with the smooth flat plates (below and right of the serrated plates) that have the threaded holes which sandwich the flat nut plate, serrated plate, cab panel and strike plate to lock in place when the hardware is tightened.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Digging a little deeper in Brad Allen's "Parts" pictures, I believe the serrated rectangular threaded hole nut plates in the upper center/right box in this AD parts bin2 picture (see zoomed in screenshot below) are the correct ones for the AD series truck door strike plates.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Here's a couple pics of mine when I was drilling out a broken bolt and retapping. The vise in the pic has 3-1/2" jaws for scale.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
