I need the Engine Folk to take a look at this tuning plan and give me your thoughts, seems like a lot of timing but heck I am just an Electrician. All equipment is from Patrick. The stock distributor I rebuilt and used the solid state resistor from a member. I also have a new still in the box GM distributor with vac advance. If this info is correct it seems it would be easer to change the springs in the distributor, if they even still exist. Trying to get this baby back as close to stock as possible using what I have in hand or installed. WE are getting closer to the first drive. I am also asking for advice in the driveline section.
That setup will work, but it's far from ideal. I particularly dislike the "vacuum advance at idle" situation. That can be corrected with a pretty simple carburetor modification. Centrifugal advance can be altered by changing the total movement of the advance weights in their slots- - - -the only thing different springs do is change the rate of advance at different RPM ranges. Most engines run best under load with a total centrifugal advance of 35-36 crankshaft degrees achieved at around 2500-3K RPM, with about an extra 10 degrees of vacuum advance for improved gas mileage. The vacuum advance goes away almost instantly as soon as the throttle is opened up for hill climbing, passing, or trailer towing. The above observations have been confirmed by the 200+ dyno runs I've done over the past 30+ years, on just about all the brands of engines I've tested. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I am confused on the vacuum at idle. I was to run a 3/16” hard line from the base of the Carter YF directly to the Stock distributor. I thought that was a stock setup?
The Carter YF has a "ported vacuum" connection near the base of the carb, and I believe it doesn't become active until the throttle plate is just off idle. At least that's what I've observed with my Carter YF setup. I believe the hard line to the distributor is smaller than 3/16" OD. It doesn't need to be that big.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The size of the advance tubing is immaterial- - - -it could be 1/2" or bigger and do the same job as 3/16 (which is normal, BTW). Sort of like Smokey Yunick's 3" diameter "fuel line" that held an extra 5 gallons of gas! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
