The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 Eng Valve Springs

Have tried two or three valve spring compressing tools and they are either have a throat that doesn’t reach or the clamping won’t compress.
Recommendations please.
Auto Zone O’Reiles Habor Freight don’t have the tools I need

OTC 4572 worked for me. Believe Harbor Freight sells a similar version under their Maddox brand.

I tried one from Amazon This one won't work and wound up sending it back. It was the style that clamps around the head from the valve head to the spring keeper, but it didn't have enough leverage to compress the springs (either that, or my grip strength is failing me - no other evidence of that though. ) I don't recall what I finally did to get the head disassembled - may have rented one from O'Reilly's.

Have not used, but considered for what appears to be better leverage:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-906788

Khansen: I had the same experience with the same tool I purchased from Amazon and just returned it.
dt235sd: the tool you suggest looks promising. I’ll have to see if it’s available.

I've used one like this for over 50 years. Always works well:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-906800

You might want to look for the slightly larger one...I think that one goes up to 1.32" and there's another one that goes up to something like 1.7".

Jon, I’m assuming you used it on a 216 and or a 235 engine?
I had seen these at local auto parts but was unsure if it would work on a 235.

Texas, the 216 and 235 valve setups are essentially the same. So a spring compressor that works on one should also work on the other.

I used one like this on John's 261 a couple of months ago, when my air-powered spring tool bit the dust after 40+ years. Worked like a champ!

www.ebay.com/itm/158009533825?

Jerry

I used that style as well back in January when I replaced valve stem seals on my 235. It was a little difficult to operate, but it worked. Be sure the valve doesn't fall out on the concrete floor. Some have a 3/8" female square on the end so that you can use a ratchet w/ extension to turn it.

I suggested the OTC C-clamp type because I used it as well and found it easier to use. I had to add something to gain a little more leverage (can't recall what that something was at the moment?). That's why I thought the one from Summit might be ideal, but I have no direct experience. Plus its $100, so not inexpensive for occasional use.

This was my first time removing valve springs; I'm sure practice makes perfect after a while!

One thing that helps is to hit each valve retainer with a hammer just off to the side of the valve stem, this breaks the taper retainers loose so it comes apart much easier. It doesn't take much of a hit so go easy. The springs don't have a lot of tension on them but over time the tapered retainers really get tight.

Great tip. Thanks you

Set the head on a couple of wood blocks, find a socket or piece of pipe that fits the spring cap. Tap with hammer to break the cap loose from retainers. Have a magnet handy as retainers may pop out.

Yes, I've used that compressor on lots and lots of engines. Including a Briggs & Stratton 11hp horizontal engine for a generator. You just have to turn the wheel until you can slip the two valve keepers out or replace them when you go back with a new spring. Really easy to use once you get the hang of it. One neat thing about it is if you ever suffer a broken spring (I've had 3 or 4 on 235s), you can change the spring without removing the head. Just carefully get the piston up to the top of its stroke.

Great. Great tip.

Jon I purchased the same tool on Amazon and the “star” adjustment knob popped off after three springs removed. I modified it by adding a screw and washer on top of the adjuster. The keys were so fused to the spring retention washer that it was troublesome removing the springs.