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Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
Every time I think I'm making progress I hit a wall, oh well. Was slipping the bearings into the caps to check bearing clearance and when I got to the trust bearing there was no hole for the dowel, what to do? See the pic, old bearing on the right and new on the left, obviously.

Drill a hole in the cap OR grind off the dowel on the bearing. Thoughts??
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1954 3600 Stakebed
non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Is the bearing even the right width? The new bearing looks wider which would be for a 216. (see pics - 216 on the left) Did you put the lower bearing shell in the block instead of the cap? If not, it's easy enough to drill the cap. Don't grind off the dowel on the bearing. It's there to keep it from rotating with the crankshaft.
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IMG_7987.JPG (104.19 KB, 67 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jun 2018
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 87
Bearing is the corret width, was through that unfortunately. Had to return a set that I had purchased. Upper bearing with the oiling holes were already in the block, so no. Bearings were in the correct place. After I posted it did become obvious that drilling the hole in the cap was the best approach. Did that successfully, not a big deal. Thanks!


1954 3600 Stakebed
non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,740
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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What engine are you working with? I don't think I've ever seen any stovebolt engine without dowel holes in all the main bearing caps- - - - -216 through 261!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
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I ran into a similar issue on my '60 235. The thrust bearing wasn't the correct width It took a bit of research to locate the correct bearing. I took the measurements from the original bearing and crossed those on the Federal Mogal site.

I learned a while back not to toss the used parts until everything is assembled.


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Amen, all parts are in a pile, neat of course, from leaf spring bushings to rocker arms. the parts are the only clues to its history.


1954 3600 Stakebed
non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,370
T
Crusty Old Sarge
Crusty Old Sarge
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,370
A good many of the bearing set available now are a "One Size Fita All" solution. The rest of the bearing set was correct; that st came from RockAuto, an Engine Tech part if I remember.

Last edited by TUTS 59; 08/20/2026 1:00 PM. Reason: Spelling

~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane

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