The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Labor Day

Labor Day

Putting down your wrenches or time for
MORE wrenching?

Wrenching this Labor Day
Plenty of places to share.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
7 members (Ponchogl, WICruiser, Hawkman, 1955 1 Series, Uncles51, Dennys28, tclederman), 58 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,017
Posts1,055,256
Members48,417
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#1609585 08/16/2026 7:50 PM
Joined: Nov 2025
Posts: 49
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Nov 2025
Posts: 49
I'm looking into modifying a GMC 270 rear main seal to accept a rubber seal rather than a rope seal.
There doesn't seem to be anyone that makes a seal for the 270 but if I can find something I can adapt to it I might give it a try.

Part of my motivation is that the seal surfaces on the two cranks I have are fairly pitted. Stock crank seal journal diameter is 2 7/8" but I could pretty easily grind it down to 2 3/4" dia. or anything in between.
I can bore out the back of the block and main cap to accept a seal. It may require me to make a bushing to hold the seal, depending on what seal I can find.

I see BestGasket makes seals for GMC/Chevy 235 & 261's. https://bestgasket.com/rear-main-seals/ Can someone tell me the diameters of the crank seal surfaces on those engines? From what I can find they're different than the rear main journal. They look to be designed to fit in the existing rope seal groove so may not work for what I'm doing.

I did find "split" one-piece seals from Garlock like this: https://www.garlock.com/catalog/products/bearing-protection/oil-seals/split-seals/24610-0648
They make tons of different sizes and materials with either single lip or with dust seal lip. The hard part might be in getting the seal onto the crank and past the oil slinger. It would likely have to be put on the crank before it was installed.

I'd probably just put in a rope seal if the cranks weren't pitted. (one crank has already had the seal surface ground down about .009") Not sure how much smaller it could go and get a rope seal to work.
What do you think? Is it a waste of time or do you think one of the Garlock seals would work?

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,740
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,740
I just measured the seal surface on a 270 GMC crankshaft. It's 2 7/8" (2.875) in diameter, and 3/4" wide. I'd suggest finding a 2 piece crankshaft seal that's close to the right diameter (maybe a big block Chevy V8 or something from MOPAR), grind the GMC crankshaft seal surface to that diameter, and make a 2 piece seal holder that bolts onto the back of the block and the main bearing cap. There's no point in reinventing the wheel when a simple resize of the crankshaft will give you a smooth surface, and a seal that's already been engineered to work with an engine.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,473
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,473
How about if you just buy and install a 99287 speedi-sleeve"? It is made for a shaft of 2.8752" and will add just a wee bit to the overall diameter when installed. Install it using red Loctite. This will give you the equivalent of a brand new sealing surface back there and will provide some good alternatives. You can usually find those on Amazon for about $30.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 2,435
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 2,435
Can't do a speedy sleave because of a large flange on the back end of the crankshaft where the flywheel mounts.

Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 08/18/2026 7:00 PM.

'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 216
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 216
I've built 2 of these engines both 270s and one has nearly 40K Miles and doesn't leak a drop. this is not to say it doesn't leak other places .


Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0