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#1608981 08/05/2026 12:31 PM
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
Good morning all, So I've ordered all of the bits and pieces for my new cam install (Except for the lifters, I'm exploring resurfacing vs. all new but I have lots of time for that). meanwhile I was thinking about the timing gear on the cam. What's the best way to remove and reinstall? Before I tore it all down I did check the lash in the gears , it was .005-6" which I believe is withing spec. Thoughts?


1954 3600 Stakebed
non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,740
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,740
The timing gear is usually aluminum, running against a steel crankshaft gear. It's a tight press fit, or a more effective way to install it is to heat the gear and shrink fit it to the cam. Once it's on there, removal and reinstallation is a risky business. The bore of the gear usually galls as it's pressed off. Trying to reuse a gear set that's decades old is false economy- - - -the cost of new cam and crank gears is a small fraction of the cost of a complete engine rebuild.

If you remove the cam gear to recycle the thrust plate between the gear and the cam, be sure to use a bearing splitter to support the full perimeter of the thrust plate- - - - -it's easy to break it if it's not properly supported.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,473
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,473
The lash between the gears is one check but the most important one in my experience is the gap between the thrust plate and the camshaft. It ought to be .001" to .003". No more than that on a new one...and preferably .001".


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
Well, I had a felling "replace" was the answer. When I searched the net to see what others did it was interesting. Many unorthodox methods and tools were used, Had a feeling there was a reason for that. Overlooked it when I ordered everything. OOPS!


1954 3600 Stakebed
non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,740
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,740
Since I seldom, if ever reuse a cam gear, I drill and tap two holes in the body of the gear and use a puller that bolts onto the gear, (same kind that's used on a stovebolt harmonic balancer) instead of trying to press it off. That eliminates any stress on the thrust plate. A couple of extra holes won't prevent reinstalling the gear on another cam, if desired. You can also use the two access holes in the gear for the thrust plate screws, with bolts, nuts, and flat washers.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 87
Didn't think about damage to the thrust plate, thanks.


1954 3600 Stakebed
non-original engine out of a '55 passenger car with powerglide

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