I’m cleaning my frame to get ready for paint. I pressure washed and went over it with wire brushes and wire wheels. I want to roll and sponge brush it on. I’m planning on using rust oleum or tractor supply brand paint for rust. My questions are: 1 Should I use a thinner? 2 Should I use a hardener? 3 Can I just use iso 70 alcohol for final wipe down before painting? I’m gonna give it one more power wash to knock the remaining dust off as soon as I decide what paint supplies I need. I did remove the exhaust from the muffler back. I want to paint it as well. I know it requires a different paint. Any suggestions on high temp paint welcome. Thanks!
If the product you are buying says to thin with thinner, do that. At the very least, have some thinner or something similar on hand for cleanup. If the product you are buying says to use a hardener, do that. I've used auto paint specific stuff for wipe down. I've also used Brakleen and a non-lint towel. Not sure how the ISO would work. If you are going to wash and it will be a while before you paint, make sure you dry then keep it dry. Even rat feet print will rust and leave evidence. The dark reddish stuff in the pictures is still rust. Eventually your paint adhesion will fail. You will know when you metal is rust free as it will shine, or be close to shiny.
Pic of junior rat feet evidence and surface rust from 2 days of marine layer in the desert we call Southern California. Was freshly sandblasted last week.
You are so close to primer ready, you might consider using a rust converter as a last step, Ie: Rust-Mort or some similar (acidic) product that renders/converts rust to a stable substrate.
You will eventually see rust on the frame, no matter what you do. I had my frame sandblasted and cleaned it after bringing it back from the blaster, shot it with epoxy primer and black semi-gloss enamel. There are spots of rust, especially at the riveted joints and spots that are extremely hard to get to. A rust converter primer might have been better, but unless you dip it in a huge tank of paint, you'll never get it everywhere. Do the best you can and don't stress over it.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Last edited by Gdads51; 08/01/20264:15 PM. Reason: remove trackng from amazon link
"Do not walk behind me, for I may not lead. Do not walk ahead of me, for I may not follow. Do not walk beside me either. Just leave me alone, you're starting to freak me out."
Thanks for all the suggestions. The one I needed to hear most is to do the best I can and not stress over it. I'm expert level at complicating projects and getting in my own way. lol. I hope to paint one day next week.
Happy to help with the don't stress out comment Bill. I have a rust spot on my frame that I've been thinking about repainting every time I roll underneath to do something. Have done lots of that in the last few days, getting the truck ready for a show tomorrow from engine not installed 4 days ago, to washing the truck today. WHEW!
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I have a rust spot on my frame that I've been thinking about repainting every time I roll underneath to do something. Have done lots of that in the last few days, getting the truck ready for a show tomorrow from engine not installed 4 days ago, to washing the truck today. WHEW!