Well, since I am now officially retired, I am taking on my next project.
I restored my 1953 5 window very close to original except a nice paint job and nice rims. The wife and I have very much enjoyed it going to fund raising car shows and the big one in south MS, Cruisin' the Coast. So this will be for her to take since she really enjoys going, too.
The one minute summary: it will be a '49 Suburban on a 1998 S10 frame keeping the 4.3 V6 rebuilt engine, updated interior, AC, PS, PB and a few other updates. Depending on the final stance on the s10 frame, I may lower it just a bit.
I purchased the vehicle from a fellow Stovebolter in Crystal River Florida -- 7.5 hr drive one way. Me and a couple guys drove down and I rented a large U-Haul to put all the pieces he had taken apart. Spent the night along the way back and made it back the next day.
The first picture (below) is how the previous owner got it on the trailer. The second picture is how I brought it back to MS still attached to a rotisserie.
Overall it looks pretty good and he had already done some body work in the usual rusted places.
More to come! 🚙
Last edited by Southerntruck; 07/26/202611:53 AM. Reason: Changed Title
Yes WICruiser, the previous owner included several other items. A MiG welder, table top sandblaster a portable sandblaster a chop saw and ALOT of already purchased new parts for some I need and some I will sell.
Glad to see the Burb found a new Stovebolter home. Looks like it was very much original and complete when the original Stovebolter brought it home. Is the Mrs taking a hands on approach to her truck, or just consulting/directing the project?
It would be interesting to know who the Stovebolter who previously owned it is, if they don't mind folks knowing. Kinda helps know and document the history of the truck in our community.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
So I jumped pretty quick onto the frame after removing all the S10 parts. I cut all the S10 mounts off and ground everything smooth. I am using the Henry Panza kit for mounting the 49-53 short bed trucks. The burb is different after the 4 cab mounts. But it will not be a problem. The frame even though it was 1998 was not very rusty but after I mounted the Panza kit, I pulled all of them off and sanded and wire brushed the whole frame everywhere that was accessible. The front 2/3 of the frame is boxed so cleaning that inside was impossible, that area inside I used Eastwood rust encapsulator, they have pretty neat 2’ long spray nozzle that makes it pretty easy to coat. I used a borescope camera that hooks to my phone to check out the inside. After a couple of coats I probably have about 95% coverage. I used their same product on the exterior of the frame. Once that was completed I had previously had good experience with Martin Senor chassis black. You can touch up or partial recover an area and cannot see a dividing line. It is discontinued but replaced with an “all purpose” black. Seems like the same paint to me. Once that was completed I put all the Burb mounts back on after painting them with the same black. With the frame done except for the rear end (more later). I am using the 4.3 with a carburetor and decided to not use the fuel pump in the tank. I changed the tank and pickup to use an electric fuel pump and will mount it on the frame. I will redo the fuel line and return later. After changing the fuel tank I had to modify the radiator support using the info in the Henry Panza kit. The Panza kit is pretty nice, he has worked out all the geometry for assembling the parts. All the way to the inner fenders that will need to be notched. No welding required it all bolts on with grade 8 bolts and heavy brackets. More soon!
Thanks for the info Donald. I found "Oldngray" only had one active post back in early February of 2025 that left some hints about the truck and where it was at back then. Guessing he may have posted in the Swap meet back then, which would be long gone now even though the post count is still included.
Sounds like from his post he had already done much of the mechanical work with notes about engine rebuilt, trans and rearend already done on the chassis? Or was that on the original chassis and driveline stuff (pre-S10 chassis)?
One other thing he mentioned that caught my eye. He said its a "49 Clamshell carryall". I kinda thought that might be the case, seeing the first pic you posted, but couldn't tell for sure from the across the back side view.
Looking forward to following your new project.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Yep, he had done a lot on the original chassis and body some of which I will not be using. He and I did PM a good bit to work out the details. Yes it is a clamshell carryall. I am looking forward to this new challenge.
This looks like another adventure (your '53 half-ton) in the making. I bet the Panel & Burbs fellas will be following this.
Keep us posted.
Last edited by Peggy M; 03/29/202612:45 AM.
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery "We make a living by what we get; we make a life by what we give." -- Winston Churchill
Ok so here are some “before” pictures before I start my body work. The po did some repairs and some priming. I will be reworking some of it and continuing deeper where I feel the need to. I need to focus on the double wall areas from the doors to the back and door and window posts. I had my 53 dipped to kill the rust than EDP coated for the double wall in the back and the door posts but am not taking that approach this time. Please chime in on what you did and how comfortable you were with the results in this situation would be appreciated? I don’t want to reinvent the wheel. Right now I am just thinking doing the same as the frame using Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I saw a video of it and like products on rusty metal in the yard on the ground for a year or two and it seemed as good as anything.
UtahYork, yep the back is going to have updated seating to accommodate the wife driving and others including the 2 grand babies. I have to make sure the passenger seat hinges up for access to a couple more seats and probably a bench seat at the rear.
I’m delighted to invite you all to join me in extending a hearty Stovebolt welcome to Donald S., better known on the forum as SouthernTruck, as our lastest contributor to the Project Journal forum.
Many of you may already be familiar with Donald’s impressive work. He recently completed a stunning frame‑off restoration of a 1953 Chevy Five Window —a masterpiece that still turns heads in our Completed Journals section. If you haven’t yet taken a moment to admire his meticulous craftsmanship, I highly recommend a visit; it’s a true testament to the dedication and skill that define our community.
Donald’s passion for classic trucks continues to evolve. His latest project is a heartfelt build for his wife—a 1949 Chevrolet Suburban, transplanted onto a 1998 S‑10 frame. The build will retain the original 4.3‑L V6 (fully rebuilt), and a refreshed interior, modern air‑conditioning, power steering, power brakes, and several other thoughtful upgrades. It’s being prepared for fundraising car shows, where it will not only look spectacular but also serve a great cause.
Please join me in welcoming Donald to the Project Journal forum. His experience, enthusiasm, and generosity in sharing progress updates will undoubtedly enrich our discussions and inspire fellow members.
Welcome aboard, Donald! We’re thrilled to have you with us and can’t wait to follow every step of this exciting new journey.
Warm regards, Phil Moderator– Project Journal Forum
Last edited by Phak1; 03/28/202612:58 PM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Finally getting started on the body checking what to cut out and or replace. Went thru all the holes on the firewall which ones I probably will use and the ones I won’t will get welded up. Once I rotated the body to get to the bottom, overall it looks pretty good. I have to rework some patches that were held on with aluminum rivets. That’s not going to work for me. Drilled those rivets out and plug welded the panel on. The front floor repair is also getting redone as the new metal is overlapped and welded with the existing and that’s not good enough either. I had to cut thru and follow the weld to bring it back to a flush welded seam. The wood floor looks good and had been preserved well by the PO. Once I get all the lower sheet metal work done I plan to undercoat everything. Be back soon!
Not much exciting info 😂🤣. Just cutting out the bad metal and replacing. Plugged about 40 holes in the firewall that I won’t be utilizing this go round. I also removed the drivers seat riser so I could have a consistent floor all the way across. Removing all the under the wood floor braces to clean them up and paint with rust killer also replacing all the fasteners that are pretty rusty. I will add pictures as soon as I can figure out how to get my phone to keep them under 5 mb.
I will add pictures as soon as I can figure out how to get my phone to keep them under 5 mb.
Before I found an app, I would email the photos to myself and it would reduce the size automatically.
Now I use an app called Photo Reducer on my iPhone. There are simular apps for android platforms.
Last edited by Phak1; 04/22/20262:06 PM. Reason: Typo
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Yep, I need to try the app. Thanks for the info, sometimes I can crop them and get them down under 5mb Your emails suggestion worked easiest. Gave me several options for size.
Still cutting and replacing rusted metal. The drivers door sill had a good bit of rust but it was only about 2” from the the bottom so I just cut and replaced the bottom 2” of the whole thing. I have more fasteners to replace but need a deeper cutting wheel to reach inside of the channels under the floor. I am also wire brushing under each fastener before replacement and coating with rust encapsulator. I also removed the seat floor mount brackets plugged those holes with a dowel rod and wood glue. I will have to use wood filler inside on the floor since these were recessed.
Donald, It's great to watch your progress on the Burb.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
Working on the drivers side outer cowl. Replacing the bottom 6” or so because too rusty. The PO drilled a row of holes up the center to repair an inward dent. Got that whole area pulled out flush and welded his holes up. I am doing away with the drivers side vent so filled that in and welded that up.
I haven’t put any time into my Suburban project in the last 5 weeks. We have been to Texas and California both but are home now so I should get back on it after the 4th. Family time!! Stay tuned.
I’m still here, finally got back to cutting and welding patches. I ended up ordering the bottom patch panel between the door and the rear fender on the drivers side. I originally tried to just patch the original but it was too bad. I don’t have the picture of it but will get one. The PO did the other side and then added bondo. Yesterday I wire brushed all the bondo off and didn’t like what I had so I redid it too. I also patched the vent up by the windshield and got it all welded up. The wife will have A /C only so I decided to do away with it. The only things have left to do on the body is replace both inner cowls, (already have the new ones)and weld up the outside fuel fill opening since the S-10 is on the other side. Then I will move on to treating the inside double wall areas of the body with the rust encapsulator. Then come doors and fenders. They don’t seem to be bad but stay tuned. I will try to get more pictures.
You’re making good progress and great looking work!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Worked yesterday on the PS inner cowl. I did not replace the whole cowl but cut along the inside radius of the inner and outer cowl part. This allowed me to clean and treat the rust on the inside flange before replacing the inner cowl. Both inner cowls were rusted thru along the flange. Next comes the DS inner cowl.
If your inner-to-outer cowl pieces were intact, you're doing good. Mine were completely rusted away. I was able to pull the front clip without removing any bolts where the fenders attach to the cowl.
Keep up the good work.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Got the fuel filler hole tacked in on the passenger side. Welded and ground the inner cowl. While I was there I decided to close up the floor battery opening. The battery will either be in a drop down type box or I will mount it under the hood. The S-10 frame goes right thru the battery area. So tomorrow will be the drivers side inner cowl.
I also started purchasing items that will be used on the finished Burb. I am using Aultman door latches. I have to make sure the wife doesn’t fall out( even though I have never had an issue on my 53). New brake booster and master cylinder and power windows.
You'll love the Altman latches. Mine are great. Only downside is you lose the ability to lock the door from the inside.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.