The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1953 Chevy “3600” mid driveshaft seal replacement

Got the shaft off but need advice on how to go from here.
I’ll post a picture of where I am.
I appreciate your help!

Well I did not get any responses on how to remove the seal & I cant find this particular problem on YouTube so I’ll open the book & see if that helps.
I hate to put it back together without doing something to stop the leak.
This is not leaking at the transmission but is leaking at the 2nd universal joint or the propeller shaft bearing support.

Glenn - Your driveshaft appears to be the partial torque tube/open driveshaft unit associated with a 3600 (3/4 ton) truck, not for a 3100 (1/2 ton) which would have had the full torque tube driveline.

I think we need more information on what you have before folks can offer more info on what may be leaking.

The title of the thread says 3100, but his signature says "1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton".

Glenn: What is a 153A?

Thanks, I get confused on the correct # on it. It is definitely a 3/4 ton split drive shaft with the 1 st half running in transmission oil.

153 A is what’s on the title.

Glenn - I’ve edited the thread title to indicate the correct model truck (3600).

Hopefully more folks will chime in to try and help answer your “seal leak” question.

Pages below are from GMC Parts and Maintenance manuals for GMC 150 series trucks. I'd bet Gdad's life that they match your Chevy 3600 series.

I've never taken mine apart as it is about the only thing in my truck that doesn't drip, so this is all "book learning". I can get part numbers for anything shown in the drawing. Just post the 18.xxxx numbers.

There is a big nut holding the rear yoke onto the driveshaft at the bracket that attaches to the crossmember. Remove the nut, change the bearing and seal, and reassemble. Item #13 in Bill's diagram is the seal that's causing the problem, but you should also change the ball bearing while you're in there that far. I'd suggest using a permanently lubricated sealed bearing, instead of the original design that probably has to be greased periodically.
Jerry

That bearing is listed as GM part # 954257, New Departure # X-88107. 88107 is available in multiple places including Summit Racing. Grainger's has a sealed one.

The seal is GM part # 3689176, "1948 and after, w/ 1.500 shaft, spring loaded". A quick search finds the seal at The Filling Station and eBay.

You guys are amazing! I think that large nut calls for something like 175 ft torque, hope I have a socket that large. I can’t wait to get the parts & get her back together.
Lots of fun putting it back in by myself & on the ground! I removed the running board back when I was replacing the floorboards. That makes it so much easier for an arthritic fellow to get under there!
I just replaced the tires I put on it when I bought the truck, 18 years ago!

I assume that I should get that bearing cushion also? I don’t know what it is.

That "cushion" is rubber and it's probably unobtanium. When I rebuilt one of those shafts a little over a year ago, the original one was still in reusable condition. The only way I can think of to fabricate a new one would be to use a piece of large diameter Teflon round stock, and make interlocking halves of the cushion with a lathe.
Jerry

Glenn - After researching Bill's reply above on the GMC bearing info, I found that the rubber cushion is listed in both GMC and Chevy Master Parts Books as GM# 3657610. Fits Chevy 3/4 tons from 1941-53 and confirmed it at least fits 1951 GMC 3/4 tons as its listed in the Dec 1950 GMC Master Parts Book.

Here's an NOS GM# 3657610 offered for under $10 + shipping on evilbay.

You can also order reproductions from vendors, like The Filling Station #DS-259 for a reasonable price.

Get you some parts and get back to work, would ya? - hahaha!

Thank again. I saw it & all 3 are ordered. Yes the cushion is cheap!

I can’t get that large nut to turn. I cleaned it, sprayed penatrating oils on it, then heated it but not red hot. I think it turns counter clockwise off??
I used a 3.5 foot handle over the wrench handle. Looking for more advice.

It looks pretty rusty/dry Glenn. Have you been soaking it with penetrating oil???

Once you've soaked it thoroughly with penetrating oil and let it work for a while (I'd at least give it a day of repeated application and soaking), try to break it loose again. If it doesn't let loose then, I think you may need to find an impact wrench to convince it to come loose.

Great idea, I didn’t think about the impact wrench!
It had old grease all over it & I cleaned it, then soaked again with PB.
I can’t work on it until Thursday.

A 3/4" drive impact wrench and plenty of air pressure handled the one I reworked some time ago. You can also use a big pipe wrench on the yoke on the shop floor, and a 3 foot cheater bar over a 3/4 drive breaker bar and jump up and down on it.
Jerry

I have used the 3 foot Cheater bar & calculated the distance out for me to hang on the bar to torque the propeller nut on my Stearman before. It works!
All new to me here so my impact wrench spun it off with ease🤗.
Now I see a rubber seal outside of the sealed bearing that it has🧐.
Trying to remove the seal (that’s probably where the oil leaks from). Advice on how to pull it out (it does not resemble the picture of the seal I ordered) & I don’t know how to remove the bearing??
This bearing is probably good anyway but not the seal.

Glenn - The thick rubber ring your screwdriver is stuck into is the "cushion", not a seal. You should go back and read the shop manual pages Bill Hanlon posted above.

They describe how to disassemble your driveshaft unit, including removal of the bearing. If you are having trouble reading the smallish pictured pages, go to the Chevy Shop Manual starting on Page 4-52 with the instructions for the "3/4 Ton Truck Propeller Shafts". Disassembly instructions are on page 4-53.

You might access these on your computer, if you can, and print them so you can have them right at hand while working.

I removed the cushion & the bearing is good. I assume that the cushion does in fact keep the transmission oil from leaking out,
Like a seal would? Thanks Gdads51.

The oil seal is forward of that cushion, in the bracket that attaches to the crossmember. There should be no oil back at the bearing. The bearing is supposed to be permanently lubed and sealed- - - -no oil needed.
Jerry

I’m a little dumb when it comes to reading & understanding these instructions. I was going to leave the bearing in but now I understand that the seal is in front of the bearing & that seal (I assume) is where I have the transmission oil leakage.
I really don’t understand how to remove the bearing? I need a press to push on something??

You'll need a 2 or 3 jaw gear puller to grab the outside of the bearing and push against the end of the spline with the puller jackscrew. Since that bearing is about 70 years old, reusing it would be false economy. Do you really want to gamble on it being good for another few decades? PLEASE- - - - - -look at the diagrams of the assembly that have been posted earlier in this thread! The seal that's causing the leak has been identified- - - - - -repeatedly.
Jerry

Yes Jerry, I understand that but I don’t understand how to put a gear puller on that bearing. I don’t see a lip of any kind.
The only reason I decided to not replace the bearing is because I don’t know how to remove it. I do have it ordered.

The two or three jaws of the puller grip the OUTSIDE race of the bearing. It may, or may not damage the balls and races, which is why I never try to reuse a bearing after I use a puller on it- - - - -no way to inspect that type of bearing for damage. Sometimes the bearing comes apart and I have to cut the inner race off with a grinder. At least that's been my policy for the 65+ years I've made a living doing this stuff. it's not a hobby for me.

You can also put a splitter behind the bearing, and use the puller against it:

www.ebay.com/itm/353584864164?


Jerry

Thanks Jerry you have been helping me for a long time & I do appreciate you!
If I pull the shaft out of the tube I can use a gear puller.
So I assume I will need to remove a clip from the other end. I’ll look at it better, I just did not see that clip.

As always I’m appreciative of all of the assistance I get on this site. I know everyone is busy & takes the time to help everyone!
Update, I pounded the shaft out of the tube from the front.
Then after pulling the bearing off I saw the seal. Pulled it out now waiting for the parts😅

As always I’m appreciative of all of the assistance I get on this site. I know everyone is busy & takes the time to help everyone!
Update, I pounded the shaft out of the tube from the front.
Then after pulling the bearing off I saw the seal. Pulled it out now waiting for the parts😅
Wow, I thought I had posted my thank you 2 days ago!
The parts came in yesterday, I now have them together.
Looking at the transmission end I don’t see any shims nor cork gaskets. Shouldn’t there be ??

There should be a cork gasket for the bell and the gaskets that bolt the bell over the u joint act as shims to get the proper tightness as the ball or bell moves as the truck goes over bumps on the road.the gaskets come in a kit also incudes the gasket for the collar that goes over the end of the tube

That one doesn't move- - - - -the crossmember and bracket holds the extension piece rigid, so the fit of the "pivot" ball doesn't need to be adjusted. The cork seal is still there, but there's no need to shim it for the proper pivot ball fit. All the vertical movement of the rear axle is absorbed by the open driveline U joint.
Jerry

No cork was present. Should I put one on it?
The drive shaft is very tight, I could turn it with a large wrench for leverage. I’m thinking about cranking the motor & put it in gear to listen to it turn?

I ran it. It sounds like it always did. I guess that good!

Update, hopefully the job is complete. The cork gasket did not fit but I put 2 shims in & that felt right.
Put a new universal joint in.
As I was tightening the last nut U an explosion occurred next to the truck! I had to stop ands assess a moment. Then I realized a tire blew out on a new to me MGB, 1972. Been setting in a shop for at least 14 years!

I don’t know but my 53 Chevy truck 3/4 ton ‘s drive shaft torque tube did not have any cork gaskets in it (where it mounts into the transmission). I wanted to post a picture of the universal joint at the mid shaft. The seal, bearing & universal joint replaced. Also painted the tube.
I drove it, topped off the transmission & drove her teice now. Not a drop of oil dripping!
Thanks again for helping me get her done!