The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Cork gasket

Does anyone know where this cork gasket goes on my 1935 Chev 1 1/2 ton truck. Is it inside front bell housing?

Punch - I took a look in my early Chevy resource books. Although I don't have a 1935 Shop Manual, the 1938 Chevy Shop Manual provided the below diagram of the front u-joint and drive ball assembly for 1938 1-1/2 ton trucks, which I think is the same design as your 1935. My 1929-39 Chevy Master Parts Book info matches the shop manual info.

The "cork gasket" (seal) is circled in red in the diagram, compressed against the ball by the ball retainer. Hopefully others with your earlier 1935 truck can confirm that this information is correct.

Okay real good. A section of the old cork was missing so that it looked like a smaller diameter. Would you know who sells parts and these cork gaskets for 1935 chev 1.5 ton truck? Also the old shop manual tells you to shellac these cork seals. I wonder what that was all about. Make the cork gasket less pourous?

I think what you want is Best Gasket # 7023. Says it's for Chevrolet Truck 1931-47 except LS, LT (30 and 31 1-1/2 ton). Available HERE.
Gasket shellac is old school gasket sealer, just used to stick the gasket in place. But you don't want to use it on the part of the cork gasket that fits against the u-joint bell, because that has to move.

Okay really appreciate that excellent information. It looks like the same lube goes in the drive shaft extension u joint with a pressure gun. 1 lb according to manual. Those are usually cartridges. Not sure how to get that 160 lube into grease nipple?

The front u-joint gets lubricated from the transmission. That grease nipple is apparently on the rear u-joint ball. The 1938 Shop manual page addressing u-joint lubrication starts on this page and continues on the next. It does say not to use fibrous grease in that nipple.

Those scarce and $$$pendy cork seals can be replaced with a piece of square neoprene O ring material- - - -cut at a 45 degree angle and super glued to the inside of the ball pivot collar. Trim the material to be a snug fit to the squared-off section of the ball collar, with the angled joint at the top of the pivot ball to minimize or eliminate any leakage. Then shim the ball collar to the back of the bearing retainer with a stack of gaskets to establish a snug, but not excessively tight seal to the pivot ball.
Jerry

I found some on EBay that are a rubber type, lubricate with oil or gear oil and can be used over according to the literature enclosed with the gaskets. The name of the company is Vintage Gearbox Inc.
I believe the company is located in California, maybe $25 or so plus shipping. I am using them on my '38 half ton pickup. Seems that the leak I get is coming from the threads of the screw collar, I think the gear oil leaks back through those threads so my next move is to use a sealant that is "gear oil resistant" and put it around the edge of the collar and the tube, comes in a gray color.
Later,
Glen


1938 half ton pickup

All info. What I meant was how will I get that special 160 non fibrous lube into the u joint. Does it come in a cartridge to fit a pressure gun?

Most grease guns could hold 90 wt gear oil (recommended for normal usage) and pump that thru a grease nipple You could do the same with 160 wt if you want to use that. I've never seen 160 wt, but 75-140 gear oil is readily available. You'd have to be real careful about filling a grease gun (without cartridge) with gear oil to avoid making a huge mess. Most have a spring loaded plunger, and if that got away from you before you got the end screwed on --