The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1946 Chevy 1/2Ton in Utah - "Here We Go"

John - Another thought on your brakes issue.

If your pedal is "solid right at the top", you might want to recheck your pedal to toe board adjustment setting. The toe board clearance for your pedal arm to the underside of the floor board is supposed to be 1/4". If less than that, it could cause the pedal and rod not to fully release from the master cylinder, keeping the brakes partially engaged.

Thanks Dan! I'll check that. I did create a post in the Driveline section, but I'm going to check this right now. And Yes, the pedal is solid right at the top.

I was able to fix the braking issue. I removed the master cylinder and found out the by-pass hole was blocked. I used a pick to clear the hole and re-installed the MC. Then I re-adjusted the brakes (following the shop manual procedures) at all four corners and bled the lines. Brakes are now working as they should.

I guess test drives are for finding issues, so after my last drive I noticed the heat deflector door on the exhaust manifold doesn't seem to close. I'm thinking this is causing additional heat into the carburetor? I believe I have the heat riser spring installed correctly and the deflector door does move freely. I removed the spring and applied heat to it with a heat gun. The spring does shrink smaller and then expands when cooling. When I install the spring and apply heat, nothing moves? I ordered another spring and I'll see if that might work.

Yes. It turns clockwise as viewed from this perspective.

I just looked at Ol' Roy's spring. It hooks into the slot from the "bottom up". Yours is hooked from the top down.

Maybe remove the spring, rotate it 180 degrees clockwise , and insert the tang into the slot from the bottom up.

That gives you a little more "oomph" on the tension.

Not as nice a photo as yours but you get the idea.

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the heat riser spring to work properly. If I try to turn it another 180, it holds the baffle plate open and the spring doesn't move when heated? For now I've installed it to hold the baffle plate closed, so there's less heat going to the carburetor. I'm thinking that should be good for summer.

John - Here's a previous on-topic heat riser thread that might help figure things out.

In that thread is this video of the heat riser operating through the cycle.

I also found a related video that shows the operation, but also how the fellow modified the anchor pin end of the spring to fix what he considered a problem with the valve not operating correctly.

Hope this may help.

When you move your weight by hand to open and close the flapper, is there any resistance at all?

With or without the spring attached on mine, there is no resistance at all to the flapper movement.

At rest cold, the weight sits fully at the bottom of its travel.

Thanks Dan! I'll take a look at your links. I'm going to install the spring again and hold the heat gun on it a little longer to see if it moves. My concern started after my test drives. I saw that there was a little gas leak on/around the carburetor. Also, I thought I could hear the gas bubbling or boiling in the carburetor? Same after the second test drive, so I put some gloves on and reached under the intake manifold to check the orientation of the flapper. It was open allowing additional heat to the bottom of the carburetor. At 90 degrees that day, I thought this flapper should be fully closed. I did order a new spring, but if this current spring does not close the flapper, I'll try to install it so that it keeps the flapper closed for now.

Otto - Yes, flapper moves freely - no resistance at all. The attached picture is not my flapper, but the weighted end sits like this when flapper is open and then the top spins towards the engine to close.

Working on the spare tire carrier today. I didn't want to drill holes in my new wood bed, but the angle iron I tried to attach to the frame didn't work out like I thought it would. So, I ended up adding some holes in the stock location, but I did make a little plate to help strengthen the wood. Not sure the oak wood needs that or not. In the last picture, there's a piece that slides on the carrier. It has two thread studs, but not sure if I need nuts to attach it. I believe it just lines up with other holes as you lift it into place.

John - I think those studs are meant to go through the spare wheel stud holes to securely align the wheel on the strap assembly.

I briefly read through the 1946 Chevy Master Parts Book and believe those threaded studs match your wheel mounting studs and take regular lug nuts to further secure the wheel to the strap assembly.

No personal hands on verification, but that what my brain tells me after looking through my resources.

OK - That makes sense Dan. I'll try a lug nut. Thanks.

John

On my bracket. The small piece sits between tabs on sliding piece , then the studs from small piece go though my stud holes on rim(rim/tire picture not loading sorry) then top bracket, then the nuts go on. I can try taking different pictures later or tomorrow if you want.

I do like the top bracket you made. My bolts go through the wood. With bracket it will definitely be easier to remove bolts in future without worrying about bolts turning in wood.

Glen

Here are some photos that might help? Sparky’s bracket has steel strap welded on each end to the frame rail. I am uncertain that was correct for that model year, but I did want to avoid drilling holes into the bed wood, so that was solution. The assembly, strap and rail were acquired as shown, I think at a swap meet?
The tire mounting reported by others was also used on Sparky.

Yes. That's what I was trying to do with my truck. There were holes already in the frame rails close to where yours is mounted. I tried to use angle iron, but no matter how I turned it the holes on the mounting bracket would not line up. Also, I've seen two variations of the bracket. Mine has three holes and I've seen others with two holes. I saw these pictures of a guy modifying his spare tire carrier and tried to see if I could do the same. LINK

I first thought the small piece slid along the tire bracket, but just checked and it only slides between the two tabs. I'll make sure to mount it correctly.

Better pictures. 3 (black circles) to the wood bed and 2 (purple circles) holding rail to bracket.

I do not have holes in my frame but I do like the idea of having the plate to frame so not having holes in the bed.


Edit. John on the last picture do you have the top bracket #3. This pic is from a previous post. On my studs I have just regular nuts. Guess I may need the lug nuts.

Your slide bracket looks to be the same as mine.

After a few more tests drives:

1. Noticed left rear brake fluid drops on my cardboard. I snugged up the banjo bolt and brake line flare.
2. Speedometer only goes up to 15mph and back to zero when stopped? Odometer looks to be working.
3. Temp stays just below 180 when driving and when stopped with engine off, will go a little above 180. I think this is normal?
4. Gas gauge goes to E when key is turned on, then back down to the left when key is off. I have about 6 gallons in the tank.
5. Last two test drives I had the heat riser spring installed to keep the flapper closed to direct the exhaust away from the intake manifold. After returning home, I didn't hear the gas bubbling or see gas running down the side of the carburetor.

Check the speedometer cable and maybe a lubricate it.

Your temperature is fine..

Check your grounds on the fuel sending unit.

Did you get a new spring that works for your heat riser?

If my odometer is working, doesn't that mean the speedometer cable is OK? It is a new cable.

I'll double check the ground on the sending unit. I remember testing it to see the ohms change as I moved the float up/down.

I did get a new spring, but seems when I install it and hold a heat gun to it, it does not close the flapper. It does move freely though.

No the odometer works with a magnet. It's possible for the speedometer to work erratically or not at all yet the odometer function properly.

Before I had my odometer rebuilt the speed was erratic and bouncing all over but the mileage was recorded accurately

I believe the odometer is mechanically driven, at least it is on AD trucks. I would be surprised if a 46 would be different. Only the speed display is magnet driven.

I got the mixed up then.

The odometer can still work even if the speedometer doesn't

The odometer is driven mechanically from the cable, but the speedometer has a magnetic coupling. Try Googling "speedometer shop utah".

OK - Thanks guys!

John - You might check out this related Speedometer repair input from Jon G.

His info is originally related to the AD series speedometers, but I think it should apply to your '46.

Edit Note: You should definitely take a look at this "Legacy Tech Tip" Speedometer rebuild for GM Art Deco Truck as it goes full deep into the speedometer guts and should help you get things back going right.

Taking a look. I do have my old speedometer and cable for testing. Dang - I didn't want to take out the gauges - AGAIN! Oh well. Thanks Dan!

As mentioned, your temperature gauge is working OK. It's normal for the temp to go up a bit when you first shut the engine off, as the fan is no longer turning. As the engine cools down, the gauge eventually drops back to zero.

Yes - I was watching the gauge and it slowly went back down. Got a little worried when it started going up, but all looks good.

Pulled out my old floor mat from the shed and the rubber is hard and brittle with pieces breaking off. I went to Home Depot and picked up a 3'x4' rubber mat ($30) and made a new floor mat. Not perfect - I was debating about using the other side with no design, but this is OK for now.

I like the floor mat. I did the same thing.

The mat looks nice in there. Nice and easy to clean to.

I was able to get the spare tire carrier installed with a little work. When I pulled the truck onto my trailer months ago, I remember strapping to the part hanging down from the frame. Of course I bent it a little. So I removed it, hammered it and re-installed it. I'll see if the spare tire fits under there tomorrow morning when the garage is a little cooler.

If I ever get a flat tire, I think I can get the spare out from under the bed. But, I know I won't be able to get it back in place without a floor jack to help me. That is one heavy spare tire! And that rear bumper was in the way a little until I jacked it up an inch or two. Maybe there is sound thinking in having the spare mounted to the side of the bed.

HAPPY 4th EVERYONE!

Looks good under there.

I don't think you're going to ever have to worry about it. When was the last time you had a flat tire in any car?

I haven't had a flat tire on the road in 25 plus years

I daily drove my 57 GMC from 1998 to when it was totaled in 2012 with the spare in the garage. If I was going on a longer trip (50 miles or so) I'd throw it in the bed.

Just my perspective, but if I were to get a flat, the flat tire would get tossed into the bed to get it home. Not to be worried about rehanging underneath until it's a once again a usable spare that I can rehang at home with some friendly floor jack assistance.